WHEN I WENT DOWN UNDER
Now that I’ve discovered the new vibrant, sophisticated, and multicultural Australia, I’m certainly going back
THERE IS an ad running on most English language TV channels these days
promoting the virtues of Australia as a tourist destination. For most of
us – with no experience of life Down Under – the ad is something of a
revelation: wildlife, beaches, reefs, canyons, massages, fine dining,
small planes flying past beautiful locations and spectacular cityscapes.
There are no large men in shorts wearing silly hats and drinking beer,
no aggressive Australian cricketers and certainly, no hapless Indian
students recovering from injuries sustained on the streets of Melbourne.
The truth, I guess, is that there are many Australias. There is the old
Australia of caricature: of swagmen, Crocodile Dundee, Sir Les
Patterson, the Australian ‘cultural attache’, of Ricky Ponting and his
mates sledging rival teams and of the White Australia immigration policy
that endured till the Seventies. And there is a new Australia: vibrant,
sophisticated, and multi-cultural.
On my first night in Sydney, my driver explained the change to me. He
was from Lebanon, he said, and his family had moved to Australia in the
Seventies. At first, he explained, it was difficult fitting in. As a
schoolboy, he was constantly taunted and subjected to racial slurs.
“They called me ‘wog’ or ‘Lebbo,’” he said. “They made fun of everything
to do with my culture. When they saw what was in my lunch box, they
laughed at me for eating ‘Lebbo’ food.”
But he’s had the last laugh. “Now I see the same guys sitting in fancy
Mediterranean restaurants, ordering the food I used to eat for lunch and
paying lots and lots of money for it. And I think, ‘that was my lunch,
you idiots. That’s the same food you made so much fun of when we were in
school. Now you’re paying through your noses for ‘Lebbo’ food!’”
Other ethnic minorities have similar stories to tell. I met people
from all over the Third World who had come to Australia as children –
once the White Australia policy was lifted – and faced racial abuse. “I
used to tell them at school,” said one such person, “that at least my
parents and I came here on a jumbo jet. Your ancestors came here in
chains as convicts exiled by the English.”
But, in nearly every case, these stories were set in the past. The
people who told them had prospered in the New Australia, some had
married white Australians and all of them were proud of their Australian
identity. They never thought of wherever they had originally come from
as ‘home’ and their children were determinedly Australian.
Even the old jokes about convict settlements now seem flat and
curiously out of date. Though, there was one moment, while filling out
my landing card before arriving in Sydney, that I paused briefly at the
question which asked whether I had been convicted of a criminal offence.
Was this, I wondered wanly, still a necessary precondition for entry?
But no matter which Australia we talk about, the old White
Australia which was essentially a celebration of British working class
culture, or the new vibrant, sophisticated, multi-cultural Australia
which welcomes the world and is proud of its position at the edge of
Asia, there is no getting around one fact: this is an astonishingly
beautiful country. It has everything you would ever want to see, from
unusual wildlife to the jawdroppingly stunning Great Barrier Reef, to
the shimmering Blue Mountains to some of the world’s finest beaches.
What’s even better is that though Australia’s cities are
modern, sophisticated First World conglomerations with great
international dining, trendy hotels and impressive buildings – the
Sydney Opera House must rank as one of the wonders of the modern world –
they seem well-planned and aesthetically pleasing. The landscape is
left largely untouched and the hideous urban sprawl that characterises
much of Asia is nowhere to be seen.
I landed at Sydney airport early one morning and was whisked off to the
Wolgan Valley Resort, a relatively new hotel set among 4,000 acres of a
wildlife sanctuary. The helicopter took me over the Blue Mountains which
– much to my surprise – do actually seem enveloped in a shimmering blue
haze. Apparently the trees on the densely forested hills are a breed of
eucalyptus which emits an oil that turns into a blue gas. (Don’t ask me
how. I don’t fully understand it either.)
The Wolgan Valley Resort is small, with around 50 individual villas,
each designed to give a residential – rather than hotel-like – feel (to
the extent that any villa with its own pool can seem like a residence
for most of us) with functioning gas fireplaces, shelves full of books,
comfortable chairs and lots of space to hang your clothes.
Because it is less than an hour from Sydney by copter (the most popular
means of getting there), the resort has become a favourite weekend
getaway. From my perspective however, it was a perfect way to recover
from jet lag, to discover the wonders of Australian produce and to be
introduced to the country’s unusual wildlife.
I saw a wombat while driving to the villa and then, on various
nature drives, I saw scores of kangaroos and wallabies (smaller versions
of kangaroos).
However many pictures you’ve seen of kangaroos, nothing actually
prepares you for the sight of mobs of them hopping past your jeep or for
your first sighting of one with a baby (called a ‘joey’) in her pouch.
These are things we read about in school but seeing them up close feels
both thrilling and different.
Australians are justly proud of their food and wine so Wolgan
Valley follows a policy of sourcing everything within a 180 km radius of
the resort. The chef Anston Fivaz is a South African who has worked in
London and Dubai, so he transforms local lamb, beef and seafood into
sophisticated dishes. The rate is all inclusive and includes as much
food as you can eat plus endless glasses of 15 different local wines
(all quite drinkable).
I drove through the Blue Mountains, past the famous Three Sisters
rock formation to Sydney (about three hours by car) and to The Darling,
the city’s newest trendy hotel, done up in a style that can best be
described as Ian Schrager-goes-to-Shanghai. The Darling is Sydney’s
happening hotel right now: Leonardo DiCaprio and Tobey Maguire stayed
there while filming The Great Gatsby and Slash (formerly of Guns n’
Roses) was in the hotel while I was there. The Darling is part of the
Star casino complex which includes a less trendy sister hotel, a
high-end arcade (Chanel, Bottega etc.) and a host of fancy restaurants
including the first Momofuku (booked solid for weeks) that David Chang
has opened outside of New York.
I wrote about Sydney’s dining scene a couple of weeks ago so I
won’t say much more except to add that I was disappointed when I ran
through the lists of the city’s best restaurants, as rated by local
guides and publications, to find so few Indian restaurants represented.
Given that I know of so many talented Indian chefs who have emigrated to
Australia, I’m a little surprised that they have not caused more of a
stir.
Sydney is one of Australia’s most famous cities and, after my four days
there, among my favourite cities in the world. I saw it in every way
possible – on foot, walking through Paddington and lingering at the
Saturday market (like the Camden Market in London); by chopper, flying
out to its edges; by speedboat, going out to Manly, Balmain and its
other gentrified suburbs; and by seaplane, checking out Bondi beach and
hovering over the iconic Harbour Bridge.
I did most of the touristy things including a tour of the Opera House
(awesome!) and even took a water-taxi (Sydney is a bit like Venice in
the way that you can use water routes to get around) to the zoo, which
is perched on a cliff, and is designed in a modern, no-cages style that
allows you to see uniquely Australian animals including the Tasmanian
devil and the platypus up close. The highlight for me though were the
koalas about whom I discovered two things: a) they are not bears by
species even though they look like soft toy teddy bears and b) all they
do is eat and then sleep for 20 hours out of 24 (my kind of guys!).
Sydney is not actually that far from India. If you shop around, the
airfare can be lower than the fare to London though the distance is
vaster: like IndiaNew York rather than India-Europe. Most airlines will
let you break journey in Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur or wherever,
making it an attractive holiday option. I flew from Sydney to Hamilton
Island, which is the airport used by Hayman Island, one of Australia’s
most famous resorts. Hayman was built in the 1950s, has gone through
various owners, and has been razed to the ground and rebuilt more than
once. The current avatar, which has Malaysian-Chinese owners, is the
most sophisticated yet. There is a main building with rooms but there
are also several Kerry Hill-designed beach villas. Unlike other resorts,
these villas are actually on the beach. You walk five steps from your
door and your feet are on the sand.
Hayman is a self-contained resort but unlike similar resorts in the
Maldives, for instance, it is a real island, complete with hills,
vegetation and wild animals. It does not have Maldives or Hawaii-style
water bungalows but it does have a proper beach (not a small strip of
sand), a lagoon with clear water and opportunities to go cycling or
trekking on the island. (Plus it is cheaper than equivalent Maldives
resorts where prices are now sky-high).
T he emphasis is on high-end luxury combined with natural beauty.
For instance, though airport transfers resemble a cruise in a deluxe
yacht, the highlight of each transfer is the number of whales you spot
on your way. (I saw two engaged in a courting dance!) The villas
themselves are brilliantly designed – possibly the most impressive beach
villas I have ever stayed in, with a sense of space, luxury and indoor
pools heated to near bathtub temperatures!
I was only there for a full day but I made the most of it, taking a
chopper to Whitehaven beach on a nearby island where the sand was like
soft white powder and then to the Great Barrier Reef, a formation in the
water that is so extraordinary that I don’t think words can do it
justice.
Unusually, for a resort that pays Australian salaries and is bound
by Australian trade union rules, Hayman has Asian levels of service
that easily match anything you might find in Bali or the Maldives. Plus
the resort has several restaurants, ranging from molecular-influenced
fine dining to Indian curries, cooked by a chef from Delhi, for anyone
who wants them.
I left Australia via Brisbane, a city about which I knew little
but which seemed bustling and prosperous. The part I stayed in was full
of coffee bars and Japanese restaurants but it is hard to generalise on
the basis of one night. I did, however, encounter the best and worst of
my trip to Australia. The worst was my hotel, the Brisbane Marriott,
possibly one of the most terrible hotels I’ve stayed in for many years
and a disgrace to Marriott’s reputation, such as it is.
The best, however, was Esquire, a new restaurant where I had
dinner. I’ll write about it at length another time but this was easily
the best meal I ate in Australia, better even than the great meals that
Sydney’s famous chefs had to offer. How fitting that it should have been
my last supper in the country.
Last supper? Well, for this trip, anyway. Now that I’ve discovered Australia. I’m certainly going back.