These were the ‘Google Maps’ of 16th century, now they’re lost in time

Hailed as a “marvel of India” by early European travellers, including Sir Thomas Roe, and described as an integral part of the country’s “national communication system” by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), Sher Shah Suri’s kos minars, which once marked the way for thousands, are now themselves lost by the wayside.

The 30-foot-tall medieval milestones built at every kos (an ancient unit of distance equivalent to approx. 3 km) along the Grand Trunk Road in northern Bangladesh, India, and Pakistan today stand isolated, lost among villages, farm fields, slums, near railway tracks and even in zoos. Given protected status by ASI, these minars have down the centuries come to become heavily encroached upon and vandalised.


Abul Fazl records in “Ain-e-Akbari” — a detailed document on the administration under Mughal emperor Akbar — that there were around 600 minars during the Mughal period. Now only 110 remain in UP, Delhi, Haryana, Rajasthan and other places. Taking cognisance of the historical significance of these minars, restoration work on these was initiated last year, says ASI.

Two Englishmen, Richard Steel and John Crowther, who visited Punjab in April 1615 described kos minars in detail. So did Roe, ambassador of King James I at Jahangir’s court in Agra between 1615 and 1618.

Dharam Vir Sharma, former superintendent archaeologist of ASI in Agra, said, “In the third century BC, Mauryan emperor Ashoka initiated ancient routes originating from his capital city Pataliputra that extended up to Dhaka in the east and Kabul via Peshawar in the west and further to Balkh (Bactria, in central Asia). These routes had landmarks in the form of mud pillars, trees or even wells to guide commuters. During Ashokan period, a letter from Pataliputra (modern-day Patna) used to reach Kabul in maximum seven days.

“Later, Sher Shah Suri, and also the Mughals, restored the concept and erected kos minars on three major routes, which were called Sadak-e-Azam (later the Grand Trunk Road).”

Divay Gupta, principal director of Architectural Heritage division of INTACH, a private organisation working for the conservation and preservation of culture and heritage, said, “Urban expansion has destroyed most kos minars. Neither tourists and nor even locals are interested in it as most are not aware of their historical significance. Some of them are protected from encroachment and vandalism, but they have lost their context and stand isolated with little purpose or direction.”

A senior ASI official said, “Fortunately, courts have frequently come to the support of kos minars. Delhi high court recently ordered authorities to clear encroachments around the Mathura Road kos minar in Badarpur. Also, Rajasthan HC issued instructions to authorities to conserve the kos minar situated at Moti Doongri road in Jaipur.”

Ramesh Kumar Singh, assistant superintendent archaeologist of ASI in Agra, said, “Preservation and restoration work for nine kos minars was started in Mathura last year.”