Getting An artist’s view of Turkey Despite apparently conflicting cultures, Turkey thrives on its amalgamation of differences,

Getting An artist’s view of Turkey

Despite apparently conflicting cultures, Turkey thrives on its amalgamation of differences,

I knew what I was looking for, so I ignored calls from vendors trying to sell me evil-eye charms. I wanted something unique that captured the essence of Turkey. After endless hours of roaming around under the Mediterranean sun, something caught my eye. Tucked away in the corner was a stall with miniature paintings in the most vivid hues, interspersed with a turquoise the shade of the Bosphorus. As a child, I spent endless hours sketching and trying to capture landscapes around my house, so local artwork is of special interest to me. Now, as I looked through his works, the Turkish artist regaled me with stories behind each painting. The economic downturn forced him to sell his paintings on the street. With meticulous attention to detail, almost lovingly, he packed my gifts in hand-made envelopes. While bidding him goodbye, I asked him how I could best discover his homeland. “Look beyond the obvious,” he said. For the rest of my trip, snatches of my conversation with the artist would come back to me at uncanny moments. Taking a cruise from the Asian to the European side across the strait of Bosphorous, I witnessed a city at cross-cultures. The cool breeze in strange contrast to the piercing, warm rays of the sun heightened my sense of wonder. Crumbling old buildings with breathtaking architecture juxtaposed with modern brick and glass facades. I could feel the clash of different worlds – the old with the new, Oriental versus Western, and the intermingling of two continents. Was this what the artist meant? People on the streets gave me another glimpse into a city of contrasts. I noticed their acceptance of Western ways, while also holding on to age-old traditions: charms to ward off the evil eye were emptied off the shelves as fast as mini-skirts. At one instant, I’d see a woman in a burqa, and right after, a girl in hot pants would brush past me. People munched McDonald’s burgers with as much gusto as they did their kebabs or baklavas. Or haggle for the choicest cinnamons at the Spice Bazaar, yet dish out their credit cards at spanking new shopping malls without batting an eyelid. I realised there was latitude of freedom in which the old could easily co-exist with the new. As I walked down cobbled streets, I noticed architectural marvels of a bygone era, a confluence of the Oriental and European styles. One example is Hagia Sophia, which first served as Greek cathedral of Constantinople, then as a mosque and now is a museum. As I admired the cross-cultural architecture of Hagia Sophia, something the artist had said came back to me: only a true artist can destroy his creation and start afresh. Istanbul, like Hagia Sophia, had to adopt new identities under different rulers. Founded by the Greeks in 660 BC, it was first known as Byzantium. Then, under Constantine the Great, it was renamed Constantinople. Afterwards, the Ottomans conquered the city and named it Istanbul. Turkey embodies the spirit of the artist of being able to fall and rise again, of having the courage to script new chapters even as the past lay in ruins. I had asked the artist whether he was dejected by his current circumstances. He replied: “This is the most interesting phase in my life. I can soak up experiences of tourists from around the world, and in turn trade a few stories of my own. My art has evolved with my experiences.” Istanbul has been a bridge between the East and the West due to its strategic position along the historic Silk Route, and even today spans both cultures. Today’s Istanbul is a transcontinental city, with one third of its population living in Asia but its commercial and historical centre in Europe. In the way the artist’s art form evolved as he grew richer in experiences, Turkey too continues to thrive in the amalgamation of differences. Rather than a conflict of cultures, it straddles the best of both worlds.