World Tourist Destinations

Ankit Rao went on a trek to Karnala Fort, which is a hill fort in Raigad district, about 10 km from Panvel. He took these beautiful pictures there
 

In the Lap of Himalayas

With Tibet to the north and Nepal to the east, Uttaranchal offers beautiful glimpses of the snow-capped Himalayas. Here's where to go...




The lake district of India
The pearl in the Himalayan necklace, blessed with scenic view from all sides is Nainital. It's bagged with magnificent peaks, lakes and waterfalls. Nainital is home to a wide variety of mammals and pheasants. The Siberian and Royal Bengal tigers to the barking deer, eagle, vultures and other species of flowers, makes the zoo a complete tourist spot. On a clear day, from Naina peak, one can see a panoramic view of snowy range, which forms central axis of the Himalayas.

Sprawling orchards
With 36 varieties of apples to different kinds of plums, peaches and apricots, Ranikhet is famous for its fruit gardens. You can drive your way from Nainital to Ranikhet as this picturesque place not only affords a wide view of the Himalayan peaks but is also filled with fruit orchards. One of the significant spots to visit will be Chaubatia gardens which are famous for its fruit orchards, makes for a leisurely picnic spot. The KRC golf course is another paradise in Ranikhet for golf lovers. Majkhali, a base of the Himalayas, gives a view of the towering mount Trishul from Ranikhet.

Abode in jungle
No TV, no wi-fi and no air-conditioned rooms. Does it sound like a cheap one-star hotel? In Khali Estate, one can just stand and stare or stroll through the 25 acres of land, gaze at the splendid view of the sunrise and the sunset, and the magnificent Himalayas. Nothing can be more luxurious. You can arrange a trek to nearby forests for clearer view of the snow-clad mountains from Khali Estate. Walking through the green jungle amidst the pine and oak trees, staying in cemented round cottages can be a difference experience altogether. Nature lovers will be enthralled to see varieties and species of flowers and plants.

Mini Switzerland
The weekend destination, the salubrious climate, an ideal place for honeymooners, the greenest spot of Uttarakhand is Kausani. Situated around 52 kms from Almora, Kausani is again famous for its overwhelming close view of the Himalayan peaks. With the sunset and sunrise, you can view valleys and peaks altering its colours. This hill station is famously known as the mini Switzerland of India.

Queen of hills
A beautiful nature walk amidst the hills in Mussoorie that makes you feel as if you are in a fairyland. Situated at the foothills of the Himalayas, Mussoorie is known as the queen of hills. The Kurli Bazar to library point is the 'Camel's back road'. True to its name, it is a natural layout of rocks shaped like camel's hump. Simply walk on this road to get a glimpse of the beautiful city. Visit the Mall, which extends from Cloud's End in the west to Rockville in the east. Take time to enjoy the ropeway on the second highest peak of Mussoorie, the Gun Hill. This hill that gives you a bird's eye view of the town and the Himalayan ranges can also be seen from here.

On a Thai high

South East Asia, particularly Thailand, seems to be on most Indian travellers' to-visit list


You are not the only one. Yes, we know that incredible travel package ad has caught your eye and you've not been able to concentrate at work all day. A 4-night, 5-day trip to Thailand for an unbelievable price is a common ad now. And a high percentage of Indians are vacationing at South East Asia. Count hot destinations like Bangkok, Phuket, Singapore, Malaysia, Krabi, Koh Samui, Honk Kong, Macau, Penang, Langkawi, Bali, Cambodia, Shenzen, Indonesia, Philippines, and Vietnam among others.
Himanshu Singh, managing director of Travelocity, admits, "We do see a trend, towards more short breaks or weekend getaways instead of one long holiday. There's a fair share of Indians travelling overseas for holidays, thanks to attractive airline and hotel deals. We have seen very good growth in short haul international trips to Singapore, Bangkok, Malaysia, and Hong Kong."
Manvendra Singh, vice president of Vacation Exotica, says that Indians today are spending a much higher proportion of their income on travel than before. "The Indian traveller today ranges from an extremely budget one to a super high-end one. It has become imperative to keep introducing new and exciting options. Although group travel is most preferred, the shift to individual holidays is also taking place rapidly."
True that, as Praveen Patel, a corporate professional, confesses he's been doing an annual trip to a South East Asia destination for the last three years. "This year, I have Bali on my agenda. I have already done my bookings, thanks to the great travel deals," he says excitedly.
Rupen Vikamsey, managing director, Orbitz Corporate, agrees that Thailand, Singapore and Malaysia are evergreen destinations for the Indian traveller. "International destinations such as Koh Samui, Krabi, Chang Mai, Singapore, and Hong Kong are hot favourites right now." He adds that most Indian travellers prefer international holidays now. "More and more people are now looking at international holidays, as destinations abroad become more affordable compared to many Indian destinations," he explains.
So, where will you be travelling this winter? From shopping silly to gorging on great food, trekking or beach-bumming, options are galore in South East Asia. All you need to do is pack your bags and go!

 A glam

Model and actor Pia Trivedi shares her fun filled moments from her recent visit to Canada



Model Pia Trivedi's Canadian adventure was truly "glamorous" as she was participating in a fashion show there. But Pia was determined to make a holiday out of it and was thrilled to explore the place. "My sister Binal was actually born in Canada as my parents used to stay there," says Pia.
Also part of her adventure trip were choreographer Aparna Behl and her sister Aneesa Behl; model Bhavna Sharma and her sister Binal. Having done with the show in Toronto, Pia and her girl gang took off to Montreal. "We took the trains that are so efficient and clean out there. The journey was marvelous and extremely exciting. The cherry on the cake was the fact that my best friend too had managed to plan her trip at the same time as mine."
While the city of Toronto did not please her much, Pia was totally enamoured by Montreal's beauty. "There was this almost exciting young vibe to that place — like it never slept and never stopped partying! We got really lucky as we witnessed the international jazz festival. I hadn't seen such revelry before. Sections of the city were closed, people walked all around to the food, bar areas, stage setups and hundreds of fans had gathered under the clear sky to enjoy the music," says a delightful Pia as she witnessed some great jazz performances and tried new and exciting cuisines! "We also saw the famous singer Sade and John Legend at the concert and it was totally electrifying," she adds.
The 'cirque the soleil-totem' was a total breathtaking experience for Pia and her set of friends. "What I love about Canada is that you can hire cycles at every block and it's the most convenient way to travel around Montreal," she admits.

Pia visited the botanical gardens on the outskirts of Montreal — the place where her parents lived. "The botanical forest and gardens are actually phenomenal… the forest is well preserved with tropical climate inside a dome structure. You will find thousands of varieties of tropical animals there from cats to birds, fish, and of course the beautiful penguins."
No doubt, the gardens were one of the high points of her trip. "I got a chance to see the weeping willow. The tree that I had actually studied about back in school," she squeals.
Good food, great company, mind-blowing music and, of course, her filial connect with the place made this trip a memorable one for Pia!

Thin attendance on Bandra fair Day 1

Devotees pray at Mount Mary Basilica at Bandra on Monday, the second day of Bandra fair

The first day of the eight-day Bandra fair on Sunday saw almost 50% drop in footfall to the Basilica of Mount Mary.
"Normally, you would see around 40,000 to 50,000 people coming here particularly during the weekends. But Sunday being Visarjan, most people stayed indoors and around 15,000 visited the shrine," said Aniceto Pereira, vice-rector at Mount Mary Church.
The 300-year-old tradition, the fair attracts a large number of non-Christians too. Though there is no official survey done, church authorities keep the figure as high as 70%. "There are around 30% Christians coming to the fair, while the rest are from other faiths," said Pereira.
Apart from the regular devotees, BJP leader LK Advani visited the fair on Monday.
"I studied in St Patrick School in Karachi. I always talk about it to people. I am here for a convention. Shaina NC and Ashish Shelar informed me about this and so I came here," said Advani.
When asked about Advani's visit to the vice-rector in the backdrop of the communal violence bill, Kandhamal riots, Pereira said, "There are other platforms like the Parliament to raise such issues. I am not here to give a political statement from a shrine. If he had some intentions with which he has come, I do not know. We see him as a person who had come to seek blessings," said Pereira.
Hawkers were hit because of less visitors on the first day.
Due to lack of the devotees, hawkers said that they suffered the most. Devanand Nagabathula, who has been selling handicraft items for the past 12 years, complained of the lack of planning. "We take loan and put this up. You have Ganpati, Ramzan and all the other fairs happening. Why are there prohibitions for this one?" he asked.

Finding Bliss

Giving you a low-down on some of the spas in Mumbai suburbs (further sub-divided into two parts) — which are not located within five-star hotels — that promise to offer a divine holistic experience.



n Myrah Spa, Juhu
Have you ever wanted to be a princess for a day? If you thought those stories your grandma told you about the luxe lives those princesses lived were just products of her imagination, you were wrong. In the heart of Mumbai, in a spacious, quaint building, those stories come true. At Myrah, the decor reeks of royalty, what with crystals chandeliers, antique objet d'art, silk cushions adorning plush settees and scented aroma filling up the air. Here, Victorian opulence is balanced well with understated colours.
You'll be spoilt for choice — from diverse cultures including massage therapies, body polishes and wraps, suites with private plunge pool for couples, they have it all. Aromatherapy, Shiatsu, Swedish massage, sports massage, mineral scrubs, anti-ageing facials, Arabic Rassoul body rituals et al… Myrah specialises in their own massage techniques. After a zesty welcome drink, you are escorted to your treatment room, where you get a foot bath in a bowl of warm water with rose petals and orchids. They recommend the Royal Aura Signature Massage that synchronises some of the best of massage strokes from around the world. We're informed it's a complete head-to-toe experience. What we didn't expect is the stretching that followed first. The limbs and joints felt unhinged. A welcome change from the regular massages, this comes as a pleasant surprise. Soon after, copious amounts of 'energise' oil, which comprise grapefruit, peppermint and citrus, is slathered well and the therapist's caring hands begin to work on muscle knots, with attention to areas in your body that you never knew, existed. Hot pouches down your spine are a definite treat for the senses. Prepare to doze off, as the pressure soothes every frayed nerve on the back and shoulders and relief begins to run through every vein. The therapist shifts her attention to the neck and head before ending with a finishing touch — a bit more stretching. Does it feel good? Hell yeah! True that the power of touch can leave you feeling blissful. And if royal treatment makes you feel like this, we're gonna be greedy very soon again.

n Mudd Day Spa, Bandstand
This day spa, besides providing the usual massages and therapies, has a host of other things on offer. With a boutique, where besides buying clothes you can even earn yourself minimum one therapy. It can also play host to spa parties. They have various packages like Lunch Express, Celebration package, Post Holiday's package and more, to choose from.

n Sabai Spa, Bandra
If you do not wish to be confused with too many services and know that foot massage in the traditional Thai style is what you always look for, then head to this joint. Though a bit cramped, it will be best for those looking for a quick fix. Based on the concept of reflexology, the masseurs are experts in the foot massage techniques and leave you feeling ready to splurge on shopping in Bangkok for a while!

n Svastii Spa & Salon, Powai
A fusion between the East and the West, Svastii offers services and rituals for the mind, body and soul. There are Alternative Healing, Forever Young treatments and Express Treatments apart from the Svastii Signature Treatments. Here, ancient Indian traditions are fused with contemporary transnational influences. From carefully selected music, mantras, a designated retail wellness area, personal wellness counseling rooms and a beautiful kniepp… Svastii has several unique features for providing a holistic wellness experience.

n Antara Spa, Andheri
Situated within the serene surroundings of The Club Mumbai, this spa provides an array of massages, dry floatation, body polish, body wraps, chakra healing and facials, detoxifying treatments, baths and spa packages. The spa uses a lot of organic products. Go for The Antara Signature Massage, combining Swedish and aromatherapy techniques, or Citrus Caress that includes an orange and green tea body scrub followed by an energising orange and cinnamon body cream massage for a luxurious experience.

n Sohum Spa, Juhu
Though it is situated in the heart of Juhu, this huge spa, also called a wellness sanctuary, makes you wonder if it actually exists within the cramped, overcrowded city. The sheer space engulfs you at once as you enter.
Once you step into the spa, the relaxing ambience makes you realise that it has everything that a good spa requires. Even before the receptionist can greet you, you are welcomed with the scent of lemon grass wafting all around. Once you change your footwear, you are offered to sip on a very refreshing drink. Soon after, a skin expert consults you on the therapies available, as per your requirements.
We inform them that we're looking for a relaxing therapy and as per their recommendation, we go for their Signature Sohum massage. They let us know that some of the ayurvedic massages need prior appointments. A special mention of the couple suite here — it has a Jacuzzi that is filled with either wine or milk, depending on your preference.
Once you decide on your therapy, the masseuse guides you to the room. The room has all the required amenities for a massage ready and is nicely done up with rose petals spread along. The added boost is the gentle fragrance, soothing music and dim lighting.
Once you change, the masseuse takes you to a porch in the room where she cleanses your feet. This marks the beginning of the therapy, starting with a dry massage that works on the pressure points and is a mix of Thai as well as the French art of massage — thumb and kneading techniques. This is supposed to be a warm-up before you are slathered in medicated oil from top to toe and with a mix pressure varying from gentle to hard.
Relaxing you from the stress that settles in muscles in the form of knots, the therapist seemed a pro, as she was determined to take away all the painful knots from the muscles. By the end of the therapy, she really puts all the knots to rest. A sure-fire way to help you feel invigorated, this massage is meant for all you tired souls. As for us? We're going for a second trip.

Discover the best kept secrets of France

The charm of France can be felt all year round. With its varied regions, offering the best of scenic locales, picturesque views and a host of activities, it is an ideal getaway destination for all those with a holiday on their mind
 
With a choice of 22 varied regions, each one different from the other, it is the culture and the "art de vivre" or the art of living that forms the underlying link between these destinations. Each region of France reveals a little bit of itself to you through its monuments, its cuisine, its specialties or particularities that are singularly unique. Each province of France has its own identity, something truly distinctive from the rest that makes it so special, so different and yet an integral part of France.
The French bonhomie and the joie de vivre found in simple things such as enjoying a simple meal together with family and friends, the satisfaction of having spent an enjoyable outing, a promenade on lazy afternoons is what truly forms the essence of France.
The charm of France attracts visitors of all types, be it a family wanting to discover the many sights of France, honeymooners wanting a romantic getaway, or couples wanting to explore the different facets of France or simply friends on a holiday out to have a good time and lots of fun.

The picture perfect region of the Rhone Alpes invites you for a rendez-vous with the majestic Mont Blanc the highest peak of Europe. The capital of this region - Lyon is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is also home to many celebrity chefs. Renowned for its famed cuisine Lyonnaise, the city entices you for an unforgettable gourmet experience. Besides the wonders of gastronomy, it invites you to explore its cozy cobbled streets and through covered passageways, France's largest single collection of Renaissance buildings. Lyon serves as the perfect gateway to access the charming mountain town of Chamonix home to the famed Mont-Blanc peak of Europe. Known for its scenic vistas and tranquil ambience, Chamonix offers a host of possibilities to its visitors in the form of summer and winter adventure sports, sightseeing, gastronomy, restaurants, hotels, spas and signature shopping outlets.
With charming villages dotting the mountain landscapes, there are year round activities in the French Alps. Ski enthusiasts will be pleasantly delighted by the abundance of ski slopes that this region has on offer. For adventure lovers, the region offers a host of adventure sports that is sure to get the adrenalin pumping. However, those with rest and relaxation on their mind can check in at any of the wellness resorts that thrive here offering a host of cures and therapies to make your wellness experience complete!
Located in the South West of France, the region of Aquitaine appeals to art and culture aficionados, wine connoisseurs and beach lovers alike. The promise of savouring fine wine is enough reason to include Bordeaux on a French itinerary. A trip to the city and its surrounding vineyards such as Saint Emilion, Medoc, and Sauternes is sure to leave you with sweet experiences. The historic monuments of Bordeaux have found recognition on UNESCO's heritage list. The Bordeaux World Heritage site is the largest urban entity to be so honoured. It covers almost half of the city, from the outer boulevards to the banks of the Garonne. Bordeaux also has attractive, vibrant, and cosmopolitan districts.
Beach lovers find their paradise in the glamorous sea side resort of Biarritz made famous by Napoleon III and Princess Eugenie. Blessed with fine weather all year around, the beaches of Biarritz are an ideal destination for those seeking some fun under the sun!
France presents to you a kaleidoscope of activities, a unique experience that is your own. It invites you to visit its cities, its beaches, its quaint villages, its mountains, its vineyards, to create a holiday that is uniquely yours filled with good times and perfect holiday memories.
For more information on France, log on to www.rendezvousenfrance.com

Don't trip on a road trip!

It does not matter if a road trip is planned or impromptu. What matters is carrying the essential items and giving the insignificant ones a miss...



• Make sure you have a correct, easy-to-understand road maps, which well define your itinerary. Or, make sure that one of the people you're going with is well aware of the way. And if by any chance you've hit the road without any of these two provisions in place, make sure you have a friend to guide you over the phone.
n Ensure that you visit the gas station before you get started and fill your fuel tank. It's safer that way. You never know... what if the fuel station on the way is shut or out of petrol!
n It's recommended that you clean your car or bikes before the trip. While this is only possible and applicable if you have planned the trip well in advance, getting your vehicle serviced before a long continuous ride can save you not only much possible engine troubles, but also money.
n Carry water bottles and some snacks in case you or your companions require them on the way.
n Do pack in a change of clothes, innerwears, towels and an extra pair of chappals, shoes or floaters.
n Do not miss out on your toiletries and toilet paper.
n Carry sun glasses, sunscreen, sleeping bag and a first-aid kit.
n Carry good music. Nothing can be as cool as listening to some awesome songs while driving.
n Keep your phone charged. Also carry an extra battery and your phone charger.
n It's essential to pack light. Hence, very importantly, avoid carrying stuff which you know is just unnecessary burden and can be done away with.

Kashmir ki kali

Actor Udita Goswami, who recently went on a trip to Kashmir for the first time, talks about the captivating charm of the valley and shares her memories


Actor Udita Goswami surely doesn't believe in all work and no play. So even though she is pretty busy these days, what with writing a script — a love story, even as she awaits the release of her film, Diary of a Butterfly, she took time out for a well-deserved break.
The actor recently visited Kashmir for the first time ever. She admits that she is now back with lots of romantic ideas for her script. Udita reveals that Kashmir has been on her dream destination list for a long time now as she'd been dying to see the heaven on earth. Udita's dream was about to come true when a schedule of her upcoming film was slated to be shot in Kashmir but unfortunately it didn't work out.
But Udita couldn't keep Kashmir out her mind. So, when she went to Delhi to visit her brother, an irresistible offer came her way. She was asked to make for an appearance in Kashmir for a corporate event and the next thing, Udita boarded a Srinagar flight from Delhi right away.
Her first impression of the city was its beautiful weather and breathtaking scenery. Talking about the beauty of Kashmir Udita says, "It was fantastic to see whatever I could in the little time I had. To see Dal Lake and drive a small boat was an experience I shall not forget in a long time. Shikaras were beautiful too. I also visited Chashme Shahi garden and Shankaracharya Temple. I was upset about not being able to make it to Gulmarg. But I am so fascinated with this mesmersing land that I want to go with my family soon."
Accompanied by comedian Sudesh Lahiri, Udita traveled safely in this volatile valley. She says, "I saw stoning between police and the locals. I recorded the incicident from my car. It was a different experience altogether. I was not scared, but yes it was just unbelievable."
However, no matter what, Udita feels that Kashmir remains as beautiful as ever. "Kashmir is like Jannat in India — so serene and entralling. Kashmir really is the paradise that one must visit before one dies. I want to go there with my family at the earliest," she says.

Your brain keeps you going. So here's how to keep your brain going
EEPING THE mind active and the brain healthy is one of the most important aspects of health in the older Kyears of your life. Body degeneration is an active and constant process, but then the body also works just as actively and constantly to regenerate. This also applies to the brain.
However, if the brain does not get the raw materials it requires, the regenerative process suffers. There are certain things that the brain requires to stay healthy:
1 Brain-specific nutrition: The brain is literally made of `good' fats ­ a lot of its nerve coverings are manufactured from good fats and oils. Physically, brain development is very rapid from the moment of birth to the age of two years. So a baby needs lots of good fats to ensure that it has the necessary supply of essential oils for brain development.
Good fats are also responsible for neurons and the entire nervous system. Good fats include unprocessed, unrefined oils from nuts and oil seeds. Seeds are a treasure trove of healthy minerals, B vitamins and folic acid. They are a naturally rich source of iron and zinc, and are also good sources of healthy protein.
Sesame seeds are an excellent source of calcium ­ particularly important during adolescence, childbirth and menopause. All seeds are a source of vitamin E. So eat almonds, walnuts, pine nuts, chilgoza, hazel nuts and pistachios. Add sunflower and flax seeds to the mix.
Unhealthy oils and fats are transfats, over-processed and refined fats, deep fried and refried oils, adulterated oils and excess saturated fats.
Antioxidants are very important for the brain. This is because the brain is susceptible to tissue problems due to its high level of work and regeneration. Antioxidants ensure that the brain has enough cleansing and detoxifying agents to keep it clean and healthy. Good antioxidants for the brain are organic fruits and fresh vegetables, green tea (without milk and sugar) and some herbs.
Good proteins are just as important for brain development. These include sprouts of organic dals like mung, channa, lobhia, moth and so on. Tofu, soya milk and organic lean fish are good sources too.
The brain requires a lot of carbs to function effectively. Starving makes the brain dull, but be warned ­ so does gluttony. Good carbs are fruits, dry fruits like dates, figs and raisins, whole grains like dalia, oats (not the instant variety), unpolished rice, barley, whole corn and millets.
2 Herbs that facilitate brain regeneration: These include yastimadhu (liquorice or licorice), guduchi, shankhapushpi, mandukaparni, chitrak root, brahmi, vacha, haritaki, kustha and shatavari.
3 Oxygen: Oxygen is vital for brain health. Aerobic exercise, pranayams, dancing, active playing... all of these contribute to lung expansion, thus ensuring that oxygen reaches the brain.
4 Mental exercise: Challenging, enjoyable problem-solving puzzles, learning new languages, learning a new skills... all this creates a very healthy and active brain.
5 Physical exercise: Physical exercise promotes blood circulation to the brain and helps the regenerative process.
6 The moderation of certain lifestyle hazards: Food and alcohol addictions, lack of sleep, too much anxiety, nicotine, over-medication and a sedentary lifestyle make us dull.
Brain health is a combination of all the factors above. Keeping your brain healthy also promotes overall health.

It's not just the cool air ­ New Zealand takes your breath away in more ways than one

IT'S EASY to feel like Peter Jackson in New Zealand. Once you let the sight of pristine, rolling hills dotted with sheep and the dramatic sky take your breath away, you can just about see a line of ferocious orcs making their way across the clifftops.
And if you look carefully, you might just spot Bilbo Baggins ambling down the quiet, grassy path that winds its way through the pine grove in the distance. Unless you're a Bollywood producer with massive budgets, chances are you don't think about New Zealand (NZ) too much. Some of the only things I knew were this: it is pretty. Well, stunning; it's squashed away in a remote corner of the southern hemisphere, beyond Australia; there are no people (about 4.4 million.
There's probably more in a Delhi suburb); Christmas is celebrated in summer. Or rather, summer comes during Christmastime; Lord Of The Rings was filmed there; they have a cricket team but are CRAZY bout rugby; and kiwi fruit is delicious.
Whether you're picking your way through volcanoes, hot springs and the natural geysers of the North Island or gazing upon the Southern Alps, dramatic fjords and rolling rivers of the South Island, I will give you this: New Zealand is one of the most beautiful places that you will ever see with your own eyes.
The Maori, New Zealand's original settlers, called the country Aotearoa ­ land of the long white cloud ­ when they canoed in to the East Coast and changed the landscape from dry brown tussock to the lush farmlands of today. I flew in about a thousand years later, at 3 pm on a July afternoon. The temperature was about 12 degrees, nearly double the average for winter.
What I was really looking forward to over the next few days was this: jet-boating across the freezing Rakaia river; visiting Lake Tekapo, one of the most beautiful lakes in the world with turquoise-hued water; visiting the Mt John Observatory for a sky-gazing tour of the darkest sky in the southern hemisphere; staying at the snow-clad village of Mt Cook in Aoraki Mount Cook National Park, home to Mount Cook, NZ's highest peak; and finally, soaring high above the Tasman glacier, New Zealand's longest, in a ski plane.
For now, though, as acres of wheat and barley fields flashed past the bus that took me to my hotel in Christchurch, and as the temperature plummeted even further, I fell into a fitful slumber and dreamed of spells and sorcerers, elves and princesses and golden rings and hooded swordsmen on jet-black steeds.
T he Kiwis claim that `jit'-boating (as they call it in that distinct half English, half Australian accent) was invented here. It is a popular pastime, especially in winters, where part of the fun is having the icy wind whip your nose right off your face even as your fingers fall off. A `jit' boat is propelled by a jet of water ejected from the back of the craft and can zip across shallow waterbodies like rivers and such. “It's not as scary as it looks,“ said our driver, Bli-uh (“Like Tony Bli-uh, you know?“). By the time we were cutting through the Rakaia gorge, the water a surreal blue



and the tops of the Southern Alps glinting in the sunlight, at 50 miles an hour, I only knew one thing: I had never been this cold in my life. Blair, wearing only a thin sweater and beanie, whooped for joy as he swerved dangerously close to the gorge.
As I thawed over coffee, I realised that the 20-minute ride had felt like an hour. The Southern Alps are a constant presence on the horizon on the South Island (and so are sheep ­ there are 12 sheep for every person in New Zealand).
As you drive down the desolate roads, they haunt you with a majestic beauty and the sight of them surrounding a turquoise-green Lake Tekapo is not unlike the heady rush of falling in love for the first time. Lake Tekapo has been billed as one of the most romantic spots in the world, which is probably why hundreds of couples from all over come here to get married at the Church of the Good Shepherd perched on its stony banks. The church built in 1935 is one of the most photographed in New Zealand.
Why is Lake Tekapo turquoise?
Scientists say that the colour is caused by the incessant friction of ice and water, which grind pieces of rock into `rock flour', the tiny floating particles of which help to reflect light. In the rays of the setting sun, the surface glinted like an unbroken sheet of glass. The pinks of the evening blended with the pale green of the water and I sat on a rock by the edge of the lake in serene silence.
M uch of New Zealand is greatly influenced by Maori culture and tradition and you will be forgiven for muddling up names like Whatawhiwhi, Whangamata, Matamata and Te Araroa.
Legend and folklore seep from every rock. One tale tells the story of Uru, the forgotten child of Rangi (sky) and Papa (earth) who would always weep with sadness, filling baskets with tears. To keep Uru happy, his brother, Tane Mahuta, would scatter the tears across the skies.
That is how the stars were born.
Shortly before midnight, I stood up on a hilltop at the Mt John Observatory, not far from Lake Tekapo. It was a cloudy night, which was devastating, as there were no stars visible. Frost crunched under my feet as I followed an astronomer around the facility, who then talked about telescopes, nebulae, star clusters, planets, moons and the Milky Way and pulled up some stunning pictures of the night sky on her laptop to general oohing and aahing.
It was only when we were making our way down the hill that someone gave a sharp cry. It was then that we saw the clouds part. The first of a million, million tiny pinpricks of light showed through.
The clouds parted further, and suddenly, the heavens were ablaze. We stood there in rapture with only the sound of the wind in our ears. The Milky Way cut through the star field in a misty swathe.
That night, Uru wept again.
Y ou know you're in a special place when all you can see outside your window is miles of a frozen, snowy plain and snow-covered peaks a stone's throw away. The Hermitage hotel I was staying in was located in the village of Mount Cook in the Aoraki Mount Cook National Park. It is home to the Tasman glacier ­ at 27 km, the longest glacier in NZ.
On my last day, I was swooping over the Tasman with only a red ski plane for company. Far below were miles of snowy ravines and sharp cliffs. Up ahead in the distance rose Mount Cook, the tallest peak in New Zealand with a height of 3,753 metres. It was like something right out of the Discovery Channel.
Thirty minutes later, as the ski plane gently settled down on the Tasman, the wind buffeted me in the face. At minus 10 degrees, the skin turned blue. Teeth chattered. I didn't really notice. I cut a path through untouched snow, shoes soaked, sinking in the softness; and when the sun scattered over blinding, virgin earth, I had visions of magic golden rings.

TRAVEL TIPS
Visas: Indian tourists need a visa.
See http://www.ttsnzisvisas.com/ GETTING THERE There are international airports at all major cities like Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch, Dunedin, Hamilton, Palmerston North and Queenstown.
For Indian visitors, AirAsia X has connecting flights from New Delhi and Mumbai to Christchurch via Kuala Lumpur.
WHEN TO GO Since seasons in the southern hemisphere are the reverse of what we have here (Christmas on the beach.
With ice-cream! Can you imagine?), you can go virtually any time of year ­ in our summer if you're frazzled by the heat, or winter if you feel like an icicle.
The climate is temperate and the attractions varied. Consider activities like bungy jumping, hiking, swimming with dolphins and fishing in summer and skiing, snow-tubing and wine tasting during winter.
WHERE TO STAY There are approximately 4,000 establishments offering accommodation, ranging from motels, five-star hotels, cheap backpacking accommodation and even Maori and marae homestays.
www.aatravel.co.nz ­ General accommodation information from B&Bs to luxury chains.
www.nzhomestay.co.nz ­ For home and farmstays www.backpack.co.nz ­ For backpackers www.yha.co.nz ­ For youth hostels KIWIANA! BE A HIT WITH THE LOCALS ­ KNOW THESE THINGS! PAVLOVA ­ a dessert of fruit and cream on a generous meringue base JANDALS ­ flip-flops or thonged sandals BUZZY BEE ­ a children's toy, generally in red and yellow BLUFF OYSTERS ­ the best oysters in the country, caught off the coast around Bluff in the South Island LAMINGTONS ­ sponge cakes with chocolate ice-cream

Riding in on a new wave

This year, India became the 67th member of the International Surfing Association. Tests the waters to see if we're ready to surf



Stoked! Gnarly! Radical! If you're ever within earshot of these expressions — generally delivered with a guttural, lazy drawl — you'd most likely raise an eyebrow or two. However, if the deliverer of said expressions was carrying an oblong board of rather large proportions, heading for a beach in a wet suit or board shorts, you might want to reconsider your knee-jerk disapproval: it's just a surfer being culturally authentic.
There is perhaps no other sport that lends itself to such specific and widely recognisable cultural tropes. They're lazy, hygienically-challenged, six-pack-owning stoners who renounce all other worldly pleasures for the ritualistic search for the perfect wave.
Whether it's just stereotype or a set of behavioural rituals meant to enforce a sense of corralled brotherhood, is up for debate. Whatever be the case, you can't conjure an image of Indians, when you utter the word 'surfer', can you? Yet, earlier this year, the International Surfing Association (ISA), the surfing world's governing authority recognised by the International Olympic Committee, welcomed India as their 67th member.
New breed of Indians
India and surfing just don't go together. There's definitely a cultural dissonance. But there's also a change in the salty air of Indian beaches, according to Swami Narasingha aka Jack Hebner, the founder of Surfing Swamis — an ashram retreat/surfing school based in Mulki, Karnataka. "In India, I have seen that the sports scene is really out of balance. In most other countries I have seen that people have a balanced interest in sports and not just one sport. But I also see that young people in India are very different from the people of just one generation before, they are more bold and inquisitive about life and are willing to explore," he explains.
There was literally no 'surfing scene' before Hebner decided to introduce it to our shores. And as gradual as a climb up a sand dune, the sport is catching on. "We've trained more than a hundred Indians. But most of the people we've trained haven't continued with the sport; it's been a one-off thing," says Rammohan, a member of Hebner's ashram, an avid surfer and surf photographer.
Surfing in India is still a nascent concept, catering to a tiny niche. For people to actively engage in this sport, they need to have been exposed to a culture of strenuous sport and travel. Most haven't, but there is a new breed of Indians — who've grown up with a more exposed and confident demeanour — who wish to stretch the variety of experience they have access to in this country.
Bharat Padaki, a 29-year-old IT consultant from California is one such person. Back in India on a sabbatical, he got to know about the Mulki retreat from the Iskon campus where he was staying. "I've tried sky-diving and bungee-jumping before, but surfing I place at the top of the list of my favourite things to do. You have to wait for that perfect wave, and till you get one you don't really realise the power of the wave. And once you're riding it the adrenalin rush is like no other," he gushes.
The adrenaline rush
Ankit Somani, vice-president at the Drishti Group which runs H2O, a water sports centre in Mumbai, says, "Ten years ago we had to convince people to get onto boats; nowadays, they're way more comfortable. The yatching and boating culture has also developed in great leaps and bounds." The people who go for the more adrenalin generating sports like parasailing and jet-skiing, however, are young school and college kids from affluent backgrounds, adds Somani.
Sociologist Shiv Visvanathan has an insight into this recent phenomenon. "As the elite multiply, the normal range of experience is not satisfying to them, and they begin to explore more avenues. So while athletics or sport was purely an extra-curricular activity in our culture, today it is an expression of lifestyle and of personality," he says.
A surfing board costs Rs18,000 and upwards to own. This, added to the travel expenses and time required to chase waves across the 7,200km of the Indian coastline, makes it an activity that requires some financial cushion. It's also an activity that elevates one's standing in society. To say that you've surfed immediately imbues you with a sort of cultural quotient and attitude that few other activities can bestow. "It's a sport that blends skill and competency and immediately grants you membership to an exclusive club. So it's a very attractive proposition for the elite of the country," adds Visvanathan.
So what is the future of surfing in this country? "The ISA induction is a big step for surfing in India. This will bring more international surfers to India and it will encourage young people in India to check it out and see what is happening on their front door. The ISA membership will also help with sponsorships from corporates in India," says Hebner. However, Visvanathan is not convinced it will catch on in a big way straightaway: "The sport is not part of our folklore, it doesn't have a legend or currency in our culture, so you need to build that up carefully and express it as a part of a desired lifestyle, for it to work."

Is kollam missing the bigger picture?

Kollam, a quiet port town in Kerala, is launching itself as a tourist destination. But even as it sprouts hotels, resorts and houseboats, there's very little going into preserving the cultural heritage that made the place attractive in the first place, writes Rito Paul



Kerala relaxes you. Maybe it's all the lush, foliage-strewn tourism ads or maybe it's the anticipation of a long knead at the expert hands of a Kerala masseuse. Whatever be the reason, as my plane hovers over Thiruvananthapuram and I look out of the window to gaze upon an impenetrable canopy of palm leaves and a thin ring of white surf lapping at the contours of the land, my brows un-furrow, my neck muscles soften and my jaw de-clenches. I didn't even know I was that tightly strung.
I'm staying at the Raviz. It's a spanking new resort on the banks of the Ashtamudi Lake in Kollam. Before I took this trip, I hadn't even heard of Kollam. It's a quiet little port town, a two-hour drive from Thiruvananthapuram, full of fisher-folk and coir artisans. Once it had been a great hub of commercial activity. There are records of ancient Romans and Phoenicians docking their boats in its harbours, but today it's like any other small town on the Kerala coast, full of coconut palms and banana plants and brightly painted bungalows.
Flanked by the Ashtamudi Lake on one side and the Arabian Sea on the other, Kollam is paradise for a water person like me. However, once we've had our fill of houseboating on the Ashtamudi, and eating the juicy delicious Karimeen that breeds in it, we find there is nothing else to do here. There is such a thing, I realise, as being too relaxed. The trappings of the resort, the commodes with ceramic seats (bad idea by the way in an AC room) and gleaming tureens of five-star fare, were starting to grate on my nerves. Three of us persuade the architect of the Raviz, Eugene Pandala, to take us on a tour of the town.
Thevally Palace is our first stop. A Travancore king had once, on the orders of the British Resident, decided to make Kollam his seat. It hardly looks like a palace though. The building is big with a sloping roof and a tall watchtower. The army in its infinite wisdom has painted it a gaudy pink.
Just opposite the palace, wide stone steps lead down to the lake. Pandala, who has been chatting with some of the army personnel, walks down to join us. "There's an interesting story connected with this place," he says. Apparently the British imperial resident had an affair with the Travancore queen. He had his residency built on the opposite bank and had a dog swim across the lake with his amorous correspondence. "When the dog died, he had a memorial built for it right in the palace compound," adds Pandala. He points to a shed, which the Army now uses as a canteen. "It was just behind that, but it's been demolished."
Of course now we have to go and see the Residency. It's a grand structure with long green windows and a curved sloping roof. It looks freshly painted and functional. "But look at the tiles," objects Pandala. "All of this used to be made of laterite stones," he says, pointing at some flat orange tiles. "They should restore it and turn it into a museum. Instead they're slowly destroying the soul of the building."
This is a pet peeve of Pandala's. Most of the historic buildings of Kollam are giving way to modern structures. As we pass down a tree-lined road, he points out a sprawling church with some disconcerting shiny sheeting. "There was a beautiful little Portuguese church here, hundreds of years old. I filed a stay order with the court to stop them from demolishing it, but they did it anyway."
We walk by an old Dutch cemetery where we catch women thrashing their laundry on the ornately carved tombstones. As the sun starts to set, Pandala says softly, "You know, they want to launch Kollam as a tourist destination. But all they're doing is building hotels and guest houses. People don't travel for hotels, they travel for what's outside the hotel. The Kollam I used to know when I was a kid is slowly disappearing."

On the Road
● Jack Kerouac
The book that launched a thousand
road-trips. The book narrates
the journey of Sal Paradise
(Kerouac himself) and his “beatnik”
friends across the Post
World War II American landscape.
Full of sex, drugs and jazz,
the book sweeps you along in its
whimsy and wonder.

Travels with Charley: In Search of America
● John Steinbeck
In this quasi- follow up to the
Grapes of Wrath, Steinbeck and
his poodle Charlie, in 1960 set
out to rediscover America. The
book charts how much America
has changed since the Great
Depression and how much it
had remained the same.

Notes From a Small Island
● Bill Bryson
An American writing about
Britain is always interesting,
more so when the writer is of
the caliber of Bill Bryson.
Bryson”s sharp wit and irreverent
humour illuminate the
quirkiness of the British isles
while providing insightful commentary
on modern British life.

The Great Railway Bazaar
● Paul Theroux
Paul Theroux”s first book and
probably his best work. Theroux
sets on an epic trip, a four
month train journey through the
heart of Europe, Asia and the
Middle East. If you like travel
it”s a great book to read. If you
like traveling on trains then this
is a must read as Theroux describes
his journey on some of
the most iconic railway lines in
the world.

Carry the right weight around

Picking the right luggage is as important as choosing the right destination. Really



Imagine you are at the airport in your dream destination, heading to the conveyor belt to pick up your luggage. And there it is — your luggage looks like it's been run over by a truck. There are dents that you cannot fix, and your lingerie is spilling out.
Worth every penny
Knowing how to pick the right luggage can avoid accidents that may otherwise spoil even the best plans. The best way to start off is by allotting a budget to your purchase. And here's a tip any sensible traveller will give you — no matter how many 'great deals' you may get from obscure 'brands', it is not worth much in the long run. A backpack with frazzled straps or the wheels of a suitcase coming undone are the stuff of nightmares.
Your luggage depends on the kind of travel. If you will mostly be on the road, or need your hands free, pick a backpack. If your luggage has fragile items like a laptop, or gifts, choose a suitcase.

Do the duffel
Don't write off the duffel bag if you are serious about packing well. Duffels are not just for carrying your gym clothes. Pick a duffel bag with a retractable handle and wheels — it is most convenient as cabin luggage.
Be it a backpack or a suitcase, look beyond clunky wheels. Instead, pick something with rubber spinner wheels that can twist 350 degrees. They give you better control. Choose heavy-duty wheels and a sturdy base. Always. These days, in addition to a soft bag, you can buy an extra zippered backpack attachment or even a duffel that you can strap to your back. Check the denier of a fabric, a measurement that refers to the fineness of the yarn. Generally speaking, the higher the denier the more durable the fabric.
Hard-case bags are made of polypropylene and polycarbonate and are best if your luggage has some rough trips coming up. Check that zipper — it should be sturdy enough to support the weight the bag will hold.

A one woman ticket, please

A growing number of women in India no longer hesitate to go on a holiday alone, and this can be an empowering experience.

Solo traveller with a llama and a Peruvian girl in Cuzco, Peru

You're alone, madam? Why you didn't come with someone?" said Pritam, the earnest concierge-cum-waiter at the Shanthi Guest House. Here I was brimming with excitement at the start of my adventurous solo holiday in Hampi, and this guy goes and bursts my bubble. "Why? Is it unsafe here?" I ask him. "No, no, not at all," he assured me.
He is not the only one. I've had several people wonder why I need to travel alone; some are worried about my safety, while others are surprised I don't get bored.
The backpacking culture in the West takes solo travel for granted. For Indian women though, it's still relatively uncharted territory.
Why go alone?
Twenty-nine-year-old Preeti Uchil got into it when she took off for Coorg after losing patience with trying to match schedules with friends, and now loves travelling alone. "I bathed and fed the elephants and spent hours gazing at them at Dubare Elephant Camp," she recollects. "There was no one to rush me and make me do touristy things."
Two contrasting trips to New York made Pallavi Lotlikar, 25, a votary of solo travel. "The first time I spent three days in New York with a friend and she made me go to the museums and the Statue of Liberty even though I hate monuments and museums. When I went again, I was alone; I just cycled around the city. I went to Central Park armed with a picnic basket and a book and spent the day there." This year she visited the UK alone. "I'm a low budget traveller and don't mind living in hostels," she says, "but some of my friends can be pretty high maintenance."
The holiday is more flexible too. "I'd planned four days in Edinburgh, but after two days I took off to Aberdeen instead. If someone had been with me, I might not have been able to change the plan," points out Pallavi.
It can also be "empowering" for somebody with an individualistic streak. Kanika Batra, a freelance set designer, says it gives her the time she needs "to establish a connection with nature."
She spent her 26th birthday in Costa Rica - it was just her and the Punta Uva beach. "I walked along the beach, swam in the ocean, snorkelled... Minus the usual chitchat, I was able to explore every element to the fullest."

When you"re on your own amid Hampi"s ruins, part of the charm lies in meeting interesting strangers from different lands

Meeting people
As for feeling lonely or bored, in fact for me it was the opposite. When I was in Hampi this summer, 99 per cent of the tourists were foreigners suffering from a severe Goa-hangover, and part of the charm of being alone was meeting interesting strangers. I stayed in a guest house in Virupapur Gaddi, which is across the Tungabhadra river from Hampi. A boat would ferry people across to Hampi, and waiting for it on the jetty I would invariably get into a chat with somebody, and each day it was a person from a different country.
Kanika Batra had the advantage of knowing Spanish when she visited Latin America. "On a beach in Costa Rica one evening I began talking to a bunch of little boys, and I helped them make a catapult. They took me home and I ended up staying there a couple of nights."
And Lotlikar remembers sharing a dorm in Scotland with 15 girls, each travelling alone. "So we grouped up according to how we wanted to spend our day - I went pub-crawling with one group, and explored the Highlands with another; a third group I joined just strolled around the city soaking in the culture."
The safety factor
Lotlikar has so far confined her solo trips to the West, because her family feels India is "too unsafe to explore alone". In the UK, on the contrary, her concerns over safety were met with puzzlement. "I tried to buy pepper spray in Wales, just so I'd be prepared in Scotland, but the salesman didn't even know what it was. When I told him, he began laughing and said, 'Lady, the men in Scotland wear skirts, why would they do anything to you?'"
Batra says that India too can be safe enough but you do have to keep your wits about you. "I'm from Delhi," she adds. "I don't stay out alone post 11pm here, and I just apply the same rules when travelling solo." She has visited the Rajasthan belt, Manali and Varanasi alone. "I've never had to use it, but I always carry pepper spray." Sometimes she makes up stories about herself to deflect unwelcome attention. "It's safer to pretend to be a firang," she explains, "otherwise they ask too many questions, and tend to get too familiar. I once told a local I was from Israel when he wanted to know about my family and why I smoked!"
The one time Batra missed being in a group, momentarily, was when she was robbed in Mexico and left penniless. "At first I felt annoyed, this wouldn't have happened to me if I had been travelling in a group."
She took up a job painting a mural for a restaurant to make ends meet and by the end of it she was confident of making it all alone under all circumstances. "Every Indian woman needs to get out there and make a journey alone," she insists. "It's really empowering." Amen to that!

The hand that fed the cranes

In a span of 40 years, Ratanlal Maloo put a Rajasthan village on the world heritage map as a winter habitat for demoiselle cranes. Gangadharan Menon recollects his meeting with the birdman of Kheechan, who passed away two months ago

Ratanlal Maloo, the birdman

It was from Dr Asad Rahmani, director of the Bombay Natural History Society, that I first heard about Ratanlal Maloo. He had almost single-handedly taken care the demoiselle cranes that come to the village of Kheechan in Rajasthan in the winter. And for his tireless efforts spanning four decades, he was conferred the Salim Ali Nature Conservation Award by BNHS.

My pilgrimage to meet this soul took me to his 200-year-old house in Kheechan in January this year. There, sitting in the shade of a khejri tree outside his house, this septuagenarian told me about his amazing journey.
It began over 40 years ago when his uncle requested him to return home from Orissa, where he was working. Little did Ratanlal know that it was a decision that would change his life, and the lives of tens of thousands of demoiselle cranes over the years.

Since at first Ratanlal had little to do in the half-asleep village, his uncle gave him the job of feeding pigeons. Ratanlal and his wife Sundarbai liked this idea as they were devout Jains who believed it was their duty to feed the birds.
Come September
Young Ratanlal used to carry sackfuls of grains to the feeding place and his wife would help him spread it on the ground. Initially, the usual suspects came to feed: squirrels, sparrows, pigeons, and the occasional peacock. But then, in the month of September, he found a dozen large black and white birds he had never seen before, feeding with the regulars. The villagers told him these migratory birds had been frequenting the farmlands of Kheechan of late. They were demoiselle cranes (or kurja in Rajasthani).
It was love at first sight. Ratanlal fed nearly a hundred birds that first winter. But in February, they disappeared overnight. He had to wait till winter for them to come back. And this time around, there were 150 of them. Word must have spread in Mongolia and Eurasia that there was an annual feast awaiting them in Kheechan, served by this gentle soul. Their number kept on increasing year after year, until it reached a staggering 15,000 last year.
Once the demoiselle cranes started growing in numbers, however, problems arose. The local dogs found the three-footer birds easy prey. So Ratanlal got the panchayat to allot him some land on the outskirts of the village, and coaxed the better-off villagers to help him build a granary and a fence around the Chugga Ghar (feeding home). Grains poured in from Jain traders who were supportive of the cause.
To make me understand the scale of this simple act of feeding, Ratanlal explained to me how the requirement for grains grew from a few innocuous kilos to a humungous 1.5 lakh kilos annually. A kilo of grains will feed about 10 cranes in a day. That works out to 1,500 kilos a day for the 15,000 cranes that spent around three months last winter in Kheechan, or 1.5 lakh kilos for the season.
Kheechan today is a World Heritage Site, attracting tourists from around the world who come to see the demoiselle cranes feeding right in the middle of a human settlement. It was on the terrace of a house overlooking the Chugga Ghar that I met Torbjorn Eriksen, an ornithologist from Denmark. He said he had seen many congregations of different species of birds across the world, but never one so dramatic.
Torbjorn explained to me the ecological significance of Ratanlal's act. Because the cranes get the food they need in the Chugga Ghar, they don't ravage the farmlands of Kheechan and surrounding villages, thereby averting a potential conflict with humans.
15,000 children
When I reminded Ratanlal that his guests come all the way from Mongolia and Eurasia, he smiled and said, "To me it doesn't matter where they are coming from, and where they are going. What matters to me is that they have entered my life." As we sat near the granary where a tractor-load of grains was being unloaded, a farmer came with an injured crane, attacked by a village dog. As Ratanlal washed its wounds with care, I remembered his reply to my query whether he had any children: "I have about 15,000 of them!"
Ratanlal shared with me what he had observed in these birds over the years. They gather on the sand dunes overlooking the Chugga Ghar just before daybreak. First a flock of about 30 circles overhead, making sure it's safe to land. Once the leader of the group lands, the entire entourage follows in wave after wave. About 500 of them can feed at a time in the enclosure, and the rest wait patiently on the sand dunes for their turn. As one group has its fill and flies away, another group takes its place.
Ratanlal told me that for the last 11 years, the leader has been a crane known locally as 'langda', because it has a limp. He is instantly recognizable one of his legs dangles in the air as he hovers over the Chugga Ghar, and then he lands on one leg!
After their meal, the cranes fly off to two lakes nearby, Vijaysagar and Raatdi Naadi. Here they sip the clear water and also gobble up pebbles on the shore. Ratanlal explained that the pebbles act as grinding stones to make it easier for the cranes to digest the whole grains they consume at the Chugga Ghar. Then they have a dip in the lake, and the more romantic among them indulge in ballet-like mating dances. Just before sundown, they call it a day and fly off to a salty field nearby called Malhar Rinn where they spend the night standing on one leg. The next morning they are back at the Chugga Ghar. This routine continues till March, when one day, without any warning, they fly off to the land of their birth in the dead of night.
Two months ago, on July 7, Ratanlal too flew away from this world in the middle of the night. And now, this month, the demoiselle cranes will start landing again in Kheechan. Perhaps some of them will miss the hand that fed them for so many years.

 


 The Tatras national park, Slovakia
Ural, Tengmalm’s owl and pygmy
owls — you name them and the Tatras
National Park in Slovakia has them all.
Touted at the best place in the world
to spot owls, Tatras’ mountains are
also home to the Syrian and the Grey-
Headed wookpeckers, eagers, sakers
and capercaillie.


Falsterbo, Sweden
Every year, more than 500 million
birds from Russia and north Europe fly
to Falsterbo Sweden. The place is
famed for the lighthouse at Ottenby,
where you can count larks, pipits,
bunting and raptors like red kites
and goshawks

Wollongong, Australia
With more than 108 species of
seabirds and 20 species of albatross,
Wollongong is the best place to spot
seabirds. An hour’s drive from Sydney,
this city is home to Solander’s petrel,
the rarely seen mottled petrel, and the
uncommon manx shearwater. Among
the albatross, you can see the Indian
yellownose here.

Eilat, Israel 
During spring and autumn, Israel’s
southernmost city, Eilat plays host to
over 400 species of migratory birds
like black kites, levant sparrowhawks
and lanner falcons, buff-bellied and
red-throated pipits. Don’t miss the
night tours to spot pharaoh eagle owls
and nubian nightjars
The Camargue, France
The Camargue in western Europe is
a large wetland in the middle of the
river Rhone delta. Late spring and early
summer see thousands of greater
flamingos, Bonelli’s eagle and the blue
rock thrush.

When in Spain...

Do not miss Barcelona, because this is where art and architecture conspire to meet, where Gaudi created and where Picasso lived, loved and called his true home


Barcelona in Spain is one place where art and architecture meet in an awesome manner, conspiring to make it the most popular tourist destination. Weaving my trip to Mojácar, Almeria—for an art residency—with Barcelona and Madrid gave me the opportunity to experience the Spanish art world.
Barcelona accorded me a very warm welcome. Driven to the outskirts under a bright sun, my fatigue disappeared as I found myself at a Spanish luncheon hosted by my friend.
The Spaniards were living up to their reputation of living life to the lees, enjoying the dance, music, food and talk of football. A sumptuous meal and a lavish spread of desserts topped the end of my first day.
The next few days were dedicated to a study of art and architecture. In Barcelona, the not-to-be-missed central points for anyone interested in art are the Museu Picasso, housed in five impressive Gothic buildings, and the city council's beautiful palace building Castellet.
Showcasing the works of the early years of Pablo Picasso, the museum is indeed the benchmark for understanding Picasso's formative years, and reveals his close ties with Barcelona. Picasso's friend Jaume Sabartes helped realise Picasso's dream to leave a mark on Barcelona.
He not only donated his own personal collection of Picasso paintings, but became the driving force behind the creation of this famous museum. Later, Picasso too donated more than a thousand of his works to add to this rich collection.
The collections contain key works that mark the early times when Picasso was most intensely involved with Barcelona---the blue period series, the Las Meninas series, which are rich interpretative analyses of Velazquez's famous work, and some excellent engravings. This is the only museum dedicated to him that Picasso saw built in his lifetime.

Another landmark, one that has been under construction for more than a century now, is the awe-inspiring work of Antoni Gaudi---La Sagrada Familia. It's the most visited monument of Spain and the Nativity Façade, featuring hope, charity and faith in the Gothic style, is its high point.
One is awestruck by the intricate architectural details that are present in abundance for any student of architecture. But the front, adorned with more modern sculptures, would give Gaudi sleepless nights. I think it's time to freeze the Gaudi times---there should be no more mismatched construction.
More natural than nature is the mesmerisingly landscaped Park Guell, designed by Gaudi in early 1900. It was abandoned in 1914. It too gives ample evidence of his creativity and the ceramic work that's now symbolic of his work.
The very next day, we drove to the great Olympian stadium and the Joan Miro Foundation, housed in an outstanding building by Josep Lluís Sert on Barcelona's Parc de Montjuic. It contains the leading public collection of works by Joan Miro, including paintings, sculptures, textiles, ceramics and comprehensive graphical work. I was impressed with the long queues of kindergarten children, holding each other by the end of the shirt, visiting the foundation.
For more modern and contemporary art, one must visit the Antoni Tapies Foundation, at the Modernista building in Barcelona. Set up in 1984 by Tapies to promote the study of modern and contemporary art, it has one of the most comprehensive collections of Tapies' own works.
The Museum of Contemporary Art (MACBA) brings together a series of key pieces showcasing artistic creation from the last 50 years. It is in a building designed by US architect Richard Meler. The Barcelona Centre for Contemporary Culture (CCCB) is a space for exhibitions and activities featuring the city and contemporary culture.
In 1926, Catalunya Caixa, the bank, totally renovated the Espai Gaudi: a place for reflection, exploration and discovery that allows Gaudi to speak for himself in the exceptional surroundings of the loft at Catalunya Caixa's La Pedrera.
The Apartment at La Pedrera was a recreation of bourgeois living accommodation at the beginning of the 20th century. The visit ends on the terrace---a stunning rooftop of key artistic and symbolic importance.
The National Museum of Art of Catalunya (MNAC) takes visitors on a 1,000-year artistic journey from Romanesque to Modernism and the avant-garde. The collection includes works by El Greco, Velazquez, Gaudi, Ramon Casas, Dali, Picasso and Julio Gonzalez amongst others. The museum is housed at the Palau Nacional, with spectacular views over Barcelona.
For the art in public places, one has to visit the famous La Ramblas. From La Ramblas to the Placa Catalunya till the waterfront, life and activity come together to make it the greatest pedestrian walkway of Spain. It is sprinkled with cafés, human caricatures and lovely artistic memento outlets that enable a visitor to take away lovely memories of this bustling centre. Mind your wallet is the key word.
Stepping into the great vegetable market, I got to taste the best of ice creams and fresh fruits. The Barri Gòtic, or the Gothic Quarter, lined with narrow streets, chic shops and great monumental buildings, made the visit worthwhile.
Placa Catalunya seems to be the centre of earth for the people of Barcelona. Throngs of people can be seen engaged in entertaining activities, heightening the propensity to pockets being picked or bags being stolen. La Rotunda, the rooftop restaurant of Ingle Corte, offers a breathtaking view of the busy Placa Catalunya. The coffee, laced with the fine view, does mark a milestone in one's travel diary.