World Tourist Destinations

A RIFF of royalty

The Rajasthan International Folk Festival (RIFF) was a unique event that presented the best of folk music from all over the world, against the opulent backdrop of Jodhpur's grand forts and palaces, writes

April Fishes, Meghwal performing

Jodhpur, while a feted tourist destination, has always remained in the overbearing shadow of Jaipur, which comes with its own rose-tinted colour scheme and camels-dunes-forts montages ready for tourist consumption. But when I spent two days in Jodhpur at the Rajasthan International Folk Festival (RIFF), shuttling between historic forts and opulent palaces, between folk music traditions that date back hundreds of years and electronic music traditions that date back five years, and between shopping I didn't have to haggle for and meeting people from all over the world in a single room, I realised Jodhpur is second to none in the tourism roster.

Rupa Marya, of the band Rupa

Living in a palace for kings
Staying in one of the world's top hundred hotels is not for the faint-hearted. When I entered the curving driveway that led to the Taj Umaid Bhawan Palace's entrance, country mouse-like thoughts such as 'bigger than Buckingham Palace', 'did people actually live here?' and 'must take photos to show parents' began flashing through my mind. Umaid Bhawan is an art-deco sprawl that encapsulates beautiful suites, several gardens, and at least a couple of pools.
The structure is considered one of India's last great palaces. Located on Chittar Hill, the highest point of the city, it functions as a hotel, the residence of the royal family as well as a well-stocked museum which contains priceless China vases, weapons, and wall-mounted tiger heads.
Needless to say, I was completely out of my element. Turbaned men bowed as though pulled by invisible strings whenever I passed by, and personalised notes proclaimed that I was the most special guest they had ever had and they would treat me accordingly. The suite itself bore an uncanny resemblance to a Yash Chopra movie set. A bathtub that you could take laps in, four balconies, one with a view of a neatly-kept bougainvillea garden, and a bed that you could sink into and never be found again — it was beautiful, and I was giddy with it all. I wandered around dreamily and thrilled when I couldn't figure out how to get back to the bedroom.
It was in the hotel's amphitheatre that I met Yuri Honing, one of the world's most renowned saxophonists. The Dutch musician and his band performed with Rajasthani musicians at the RIFF, and would go on to perform in Delhi the next week. He has also named his new album The White Tiger, a reference to Arvind Adiga's novel.

one of the gates to Umaid Bhawan

Honing's album is a joy, right from the titles — homages as diverse as David Bowie and Bjork — to the jazz numbers which are as foot-tappingly addictive as they are technically brilliant. Honing recorded part of The White Tiger at Mumbai's Blue Frog studios, and he's enjoying his sojourn in Jodhpur. "I can't believe this hotel," he says in a confessional tone. "I can't seem to pull the band away from the outdoor pool."
Buried alive at the fort
Later in the evening, I left for the RIFF at Mehrangarh Fort. A section of the fort has been reshaped to form a creaky lift that rose several levels, and opened to a terrace which gives a 360 degree view of the city. Past this terrace, and after a walk through three pillared courtyards, we entered the main area of the festival. The stage is set in the corner of the courtyard, which is the size of several football fields. Surrounded on four sides by ornate walls, turrets and towers, and lit by a bright moon, it was an otherworldly experience.
The first performance I caught was of the Dharohar band, composed of UK beatboxer Jason Singh and a motley crew of Rajasthani musicians. Jumma Jogi, a descendant of the Jogi Mewar musicians, is perhaps the most interesting of the lot. His giggle-inducing couplets about NREGA, marital relations, funeral processions, and communal harmony aside, Jogi remains a paradox. He has performed at London's iTunes Festival, one of the first Indians to do so. He has also collaborated with international artists such as Laura Marling and Mumford and Sons. On the other hand, Jumma is poor, and because he cannot sustain himself on the fees of a musician, he is also a labourer, a rickshaw driver and a tractor driver in his native village. Jumma admits that petty politics have kept him from performing at state functions. "They want bribes. I may not have a lot of money, but I have my pride," he insists. Jumma says that he would forcibly keep his two children from following his path into music. "My father, who wanted me to study, was right. Music is a hobby, not a career. Nobody cares about music."
Eena Meena Deeka from San Francisco
After Dharohar, a few folk musicians take the stage solo. Despite my desperate desire to discover an unknown passion for Rajasthani folk music, I am quickly bored and peek enviously at the three-year-old girl snoozing between her rapt parents. I'm depressed at my own apathy for a dying art form, which I can't connect with unless it's adulterated with western collaborations.
The evening concludes with a performance by Rupa and the April Fishes. Rupa Marya, the 36-year-old headwoman of roma-punk band Rupa and the April Fishes, is easy to dismiss as a would-be American hippie. Before she begins her set, the wild-haired musician says that her group is from the 'sovereign nation of San Francisco', damns her nation for falling prey to a 'warmonger of a president' under Bush, and dedicates songs to Indian farmers who committed suicide. But she disproves my instant judgements with her ability to walk the talk. Marya also works as a physician and teacher at the University of California, San Francisco. She has spent days on the US-Mexico border interviewing a man who digs graves for Mexicans who die while attempting to cross the border illegally. "My mum was a brilliant musician," she says after the show, pointing to her proudly beaming mother. "She had an arranged marriage at the age of 19 and could never pursue her dreams."
Marya can also rock the talk: she is a vision of pure energy and vocal prowess onstage that startles the snoozing audience. The band's influences of street music, Latin grooves, and Romani soul take them someplace better than the usually insulated notions of 'world' music. Her set ends with a powerhouse rendition of Eena Meena Deeka which results in the audience dancing gleefully in front of the stage, and electronica musicians moshing energetically under the Jodhpur moon.

Raffles Hotel, Singapore

The Raffles hotel is a colonial-style
hotel in Singapore. The famous cocktail,
Singapore Sling, was invented
here in the early 1900s. Its gleaming
white facade and the 1920s-style Empire
cafe never let you forget how seriously
the hotel takes its history

The Ritz, London

The neoclassical Ritz was built in
1906 and has Louis XVI furnishings. It
resembles a classy Parisian block of
flats. The world-famous ‘Tea at The
Ritz’ is served at the Palm Court, an opulently
decorated cream-coloured hall.
living heritage


Hotel Ritz, Paris

The palace and the square of Hotel
Ritz are masterpieces of classical architecture
from the end of the reign of
Louis XIV. The hotel has 159 rooms
and suites are named after Coco
Chanel and Ernest Hemingway who
lived at the hotel for years.

Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur

The Taj Lake Palace was built in 1743
by the Maharani of Udaipur and has 83
rooms and suites. It is built on a rock
spanning four acres on the Jag Niwas
island in Lake Pichola. The upper room
of the hotel is circular and its walls are
decorated with arabesques of coloured
stones in the same style as the
Taj Mahal in Agra.

Raj Palace, Jaipur

The Raj Palace Hotel was the first
mansion in Jaipur and was built in
1728. The palace is adorned with silver
jharokhas, stained-glass windows and
opulent chandeliers. Meals at the
restaurant, Swapna Mahal are
truly memorable.

No lifeboats in Bangkok

As Thailand gets submerged by its worst floods in decades, we packs his survival gear to see if he can keep his head above the water


The government is busy making money from tourism. As long as money keeps coming in from there I wonder if they are going to be concerned about people like us," complained resident of China town and tuk-tuk driver Weg Moon. Tired of pushing his three-wheeler stalled in the rising waters on a road which looked like a river on Thursday, he had given up and decided to come back for his tuk-tuk later.
Less than a hundred metres away, long queues of bright buses kept coughing out camera toting tourists on a point-and-shoot spree at the Grand Palace and the Wat Phra Chetuphon 20 acre temple complex (which houses the huge reclining Buddha statue). The ankle-deep water outside the Palace only added to its attraction but when I walked into the residential area within, I was numbed by what I saw.

Homes and shops stood inundated with waist deep waters that local residents were trying to pump out. I asked Aim Chanosha (she spoke English), who stood in knee-deep water grilling pork chops, the point behind the enterprise. The water pumped was flowing back into the river which was emptying itself into the homes and shops. "We have to do something. We can't just wait and watch the water ruin everything," she muttered, turning the meat skewers over.
Few days later when I took a 12-hour double-decker bus ride on the top deck front seat to Chiang Mai in the north, the extent of the damage hit me. Swathes of water submerged roads. The paddy stood rotting for as far as the eyes could see. On the way back from the north, I felt lucky to get cheap flight tickets to the domestic Don Muang airport. I realised why when we landed on a runway awash with water. Even the routine safety announcements took on an eerie edge. In fact within hours of our landing, 90 per cent of the airport was flooded and all flights were cancelled. With no cabs plying, passengers like me were glad to be taken on a Thai army truck to the Victory Monument from where we got transport.

At a mere 6.5 metres above sea level, Bangkok is now entirely at the mercy of its swollen waterway, the Chao Phraya River. "Though it rained heavily on Oct 11 and 12, what we are seeing now is the result of water from the heavy rains in the far north and north east that is emptying itself into the river," PM Yingluck Shinawatra, who was on a visit to flooded areas, told media persons. Admitting that the situation was overwhelming, she said, "The fury of Nature is more than we can manage."
Sand bags marking the periphery of every building and the construction of walls to contain rising waters is now a common sight with workers for the both tasks greatly in demand throughout Bang-kok. As residents continue their daily lives, scenes of people wading through waist-high water holding belongings above their heads is a sharp contrast from the way Mumbai reacts when Milan subway is flooded. Most residents have parked cars along flyovers and bridges and seem to be keen to get on with their lives. Their equanimity makes one wonder whether this is a Buddhism thing.

Out of town this Diwali?

While some have extended their holiday this week, many are staying put till the puja at home before heading out for a family trip


Festivities bring with it happiness and cheer. And who wouldn't want to spread that happiness with one's family and friends? What with the extended holidays this Diwali, many are opting to head out of town to spend quality time with their loved ones. While a lot of them are staying put till the puja at home, several have had their itinerary charted out way in advance. Take the case of Neeti Shah, a homemaker, who decided to go on the much-needed family break only after the puja at home was over. "When my husband suggested we go for a holiday this Diwali, I immediately agreed. However, we also stay at home on the day of the puja, so we pushed the dates a bit to do that. We're going to Bhandardara today," she smiles.
Some opine that taking a holiday on Diwali does not mean belittling the importance of the day. "It's really up to the individual how he or she decides to spend the day. In an age, when you're always racing, squeezing a little time out for your loved ones is so rare. If Diwali lets you take your kids out, spend time with your family, what's wrong with that?" reasons corporate professional Ravindra Chakraborty.
Hill stations seem to be the favourite destinations, as most people feel that it's a great escape from the heat and pollution in the city. "Diwali is the perfect time to celebrate with your family. We've already had our share of bursting crackers yesterday, so today we just want to chill at some quiet place. Our entire family has booked rooms at a resort in this quiet little hamlet called Jawhar where the Warli tribals reside," says Meghna Mathur, a drama teacher. Among beaches, Goa wins hands down, what with Diwali packages and offers on hotels there. Not to forget, the famous taash parties and the casinos that pull the crowd there.
Several others, who've planned their vacation well in advance, have already headed out of the country for a short trip. Flights and hotels are offering tempting discounts and the lure is too hard to resist. Shweta Sharma, who runs a handicraft store, says, "It's tough to get holidays and when you get an opportunity like this, you must grab it. We had our air tickets and hotels in Malaysia booked quite some time back. My kid is so excited. Thanks to Diwali, I get to see that precious smile on his face."

It was a work vacation for actor Vivan Bhatena who had gone to Toronto, Canada, to host an award function. But once that was done, Vivan extended his stay as he wanted to experience and explore the city. "My work was over before the start of the weekend, so I decided to stay and have a vacation of my own," says Vivan.
A big time shopahholic, Vivan made the most of his vacation as he shopped for not just himself, but also for his wife. "I love shopping… And fortunately for me, my vacation coincided with the sale season," grins Vivan. "They had this odd little Square in the middle of the city with several brands. I picked up a lot of things for my wife who was in India at that moment. And the funny thing is that because of the time difference between Canada and India, I used to call her at around 4 in the morning… She loves all these brands… So I'd ask her for the right size and more. And she'd be telling me all of this while being half asleep (laughs)."
Vivan calls himself a "foodie at heart". Hence, not a surprise that he made it a point to try as many restaurants, bars and cafes as he could while his stay there. "I wanted to check out all the cafes and restaurants. There were some lovely, quaint little Indian restaurants alongside the streets in Toronto. I was eating at different places and experimenting with the food — local and continental — as I was kind of bored of the staple burgers and pastas."
And how could he miss the famous Niagara Falls! "Though I'm not much into sightseeing, Niagara Falls was one place that I couldn't have not visited… it was gorgeous. Simply splendid!" he asserts.
He was much fascinated, and little surprised by the fact that he ran into so many Indians in Toronto. "It is so endearing to see so many of your brethrens in a foreign land. And the best part is that they are so warm and cordial that they help you feel comfortable… be it on a bus, in the mall, or on the streets." Clearly, Vivan, in his first trip to Canada, was totally enamoured by the place and can still not stop ruminating the magnificence of it.

Usually for our vacation we always end up exploring a new country in Europe. However, this time our three-year-old, Shenaya, decided our holiday destination! This was to be her first trip abroad, so she was very clear that she wanted to go to Disneyland. Since the Disneyland in LA, California and Paris would involve long hours of air travel, we decided to go to Hong Kong.
However, before that, the first stop was Macau, at the Venetian Resort. It's is not just a gambler's paradise as is the general impression. Our day used to start with a swim at the majestic pools with cool cabanas for some RnR. Then of course, are the famous gondola rides through the canals of the Venetian. There are acrobatic dancers and other performances throughout the day at St Marks Square. The latest attraction is the Ice World which has beautiful ice sculptures ranging from Eiffel tower, Big Ben to ruins of St Paul and other sculptures of Chinese heritage. You can also shop galore here. Blackjack, being my favorite game, I ended up spending a good amount of time at the tables getting some me time.
Our next stop was the Disneyland Hotel. The minute one steps into the hotel, one is transported to one's childhood. My daughter's joy knew no bounds when the next morning we went to a special breakfast where characters from Disney like Mickey Mouse, Pluto, Goofy, etc were present to regale the kids with their antics. Needless to add, the breakfast was a long-drawn affair as the kids just could not have enough of their favorite characters. The Disneyland, which is divided into tomorrow-land, adventure-land and fantasy-land is any kid's paradise. One of the highlights is the illumination of the castle and the ensuing fireworks which are spectacular. Also, entertaining is the Disney parade which has floats with all Disney's popular characters. It was a herculean task to get my daughter out of Disneyland at the end.
Our final stop was in Hong Kong City where we chose to stay at the harbor, which offered beautiful views of the Kowloon waterfront and the Hong Kong skyline from its suites. One of the highest points here called The Peak is accessible by a funicular called Peak Tram. The ride to the peak is so steep that the buildings you pass seem like they are leaning. The peak offers majestic views of the skyline, the world famous Victoria Harbor and of Kowloon amongst other scenic places. The Madame Tussads museum of Hong Kong is also located here and one of the latest attractions here is called Scream where you are made to walk through a pitch-dark area and have scary characters brushing past you.
No visit to Hong Kong is complete without a visit to Ocean Park. It consists of a dolphin breeding center, a panda habitat among other animals. We also had an experience of the city's rocking nightlife when we visited the famous Lang-Kwai-Fong area. Pacific Place and Ocean Terminal are two of the best shopping malls you must take a tour of when you are in Hong Kong. Needless to say, our trip was highly enjoyable and we can't wait to go back a second run.

Travelling was perhaps never so much productive for most fashion designers as it has become of late. We see a slew of designers who have recently gone for vacations to several places and have ended up constructing a whole line of fashion clothings dedicated to the city.

Udaipur (top) and Maheka Mirpuri's collection inspired by the city in this pic

The latest example is Mumbai-based fashion designer Maheka Mirpuri who launched her line of women's wear, Aa'enah. The collection is inspired by the city of Udaipur (Rajasthan) — which, says Maheka, represents a great combination of history, chivalry, opulence, culture and arts. "I had gone to Udaipur in February for the opening of a temple. And since I was there I already I thought of checking out and exploring the much-talked about city," says Maheka, as she tries to capture in her collection the drama and romance, that epitomises the city of Udaipur, with voluminous ankle length kurtas in chiffons with pearls and Swarovski neckline; dreamy billowy kurtas with flowing fabric; asymmetric hemlines; chanderi net dupattas with gold trimmings; and knotted tulle dupattas.

"The city has royalty all around… the rich cultural feel is so palpable in the air. The whole heritage has so much to talk about… I was so spell bound by it," says an ecstatic Maheka, who picked up the fine nuances of the city from the several places that she explored — be it temples, the chants encrypted on the walls, the restaurants, or the street culture.
Ace designer Manish Malhotra is enthralled by Kashmir after his recent trip to the valley. And indeed he uses the Kashmiri embroidery and designs in his latest collection. "I didn't get much chance to explore the city but I did manage to check out all the handicraft works and the fabric stores. They were beautiful. My collection at the last fashion week was inspired by Kashmir. The Kashmiri borders, embroidery work, and, particularly the shawls, are just gorgeous."
Designer duo, sisters Ridhi and Sidhi Mapxencar launched their latest collection last month. Characterised by summery look and flowy fabrics, the collection is inspired by the city of Goa. Says Ridhi, "It's the first time that we've created a whole line of clothes taking Goa as the theme. We have used pastel colours like greens, peaches, and so on. The clothes therefore reflect the casual and boho feel of Goa."