Vivek Razdan

 Stories from a legend’s debut

It was on 15th November, 1989, that maestro made his first Test appearance against Pakistan in Karachi. It was also pacer Vivek Razdan’s international beginning. The fast bowler relives the tour that saw the birth of a megastar

In a team that had some of the big stars of Indian cricket including Kapil Dev, Ravi Shastri and K Srikkanth, three debutants made the squad for the all-important tour of Pakistan in November-December 1989.

Fast bowlers Vivek Razdan, Salil Ankola and 16-year-old Sachin Tendulkar, who had by then made a record of sorts by scoring a century in each of his Ranji Trophy, Duleep Trophy and Irani Cup debuts, went different directions as far as their international careers were concerned since that tour across the border.

While Ankola’s only Test appearance was also Tendulkar’s debut match in Karachi from November 15-19, Razdan played in only two Tests (in Faisalabad and Sialkot). And, Tendulkar went on to play for almost 25 years, setting nearly every batting record that one can imagine.

Razdan first met Tendulkar at the MRF Pace Foundation in Chennai in 1987-88 and the manner in which the little teenager batted in the nets, he knew that here was someone special.

“The way he batted against us when some of the senior (Tamil Nadu) cricketers avoided to face us at the Pace Foundation, we knew he was different to all other boys of his age at that time,” Razdan, 46 and a commentator in domestic matches, recalls.

The Pakistani public was curious to look at a 16-year-old boy who was out to take on the giants like Imran Khan, Wasim Akram, Javed Miandad, Salim Malik, Abdul Qadir among others.

“The day after we landed in Lahore, we played a benefit game to raise funds for Imran Khan’s hospital. Wherever we went, the buzz was around because everybody was so anxious to look at the 16-year-old schoolboy who was picked for that tour of Pakistan, which probably was one of the best teams ever. The buzz was equally about India having three debutants. We could feel it,” says Razdan.

From boy to man

After intensely-fought first three Tests, all ending in draws, Pakistan were desperate to win the fourth and final game at Sialkot, where Tendulkar was felled by a Waqar Younis bouncer. Razdan remembers how Tendulkar even rejected Imran’s offer to go inside, take rest and come back to bat again.

“Pakistan were hell-bent on winning the final Test and the series. A green wicket was prepared in Sialkot. There was a lot of juice on the surface. For the first time in the series, we were able to take the first innings lead. India made 324 and Pakistan, 250. In no time, we were 38/4 in the second innings and we a day to bat. That’s when the Waqar incident happened.

“Those days, Sachin did not wear a visor. He was lucky. The ball could have hit him straight on the face. Luckily, it hit the flap of the helmet and went right on to the nose. He started bleeding. Salil was the 12th man. He and the doctor rushed in.

Even Imran said, ‘chote, chot lag gayi hain. Chalo, baad mein aajana (Boy, you are hurt. Go in and come later). Sachin insisted that this was not the time to go out. ‘My team needs me outside at the moment’. The way he and Sherry (Navjot Singh Sidhu made 97) batted, despatching Waqar for a couple of boundaries was remarkable. Sachin made 57 and that was a special knock in the drawn encounter. That was an indication that something big was about to happen.

“In our families, 14-, 15- and 16-year-olds are spoon-fed by parents and here was a 16-year-old away from his family, all alone, with that passion and thought process of ‘the team needing me’ instead of thinking about blood. That moment transformed the boy into a man. The grit and determination he showed gave us enough indication of what was to come. Obviously at that time we did not know he would go on to play 200 Tests. But we knew he was a special talent, a special boy,” Razdan, who took 5//79 in that Sialkot Test and was never to play again, says.

If Tendulkar had passed the baptism by fire in flying colours, he showed the world that he meant business in that exhibition match in Peshawar after the scheduled ODI had to be called off.

Razdan recollects: “Before Sachin took on Abdul Qadir for four sixes in an over en route to 18-ball 53, it was 19-year-old Mushtaq Ahmed, who was hit for two sixes in an over earlier. And, Sachin could really hit long, even for a 16-year-old.

One of the sixes landed in the second tier of the stadium. Qadir then said “Bachche ko kya marte ho? Mujhe marke dikhao.” (Why are you hitting a youngster? Hit me). When Qadir came to bowl, he hit him for four sixes in an over. Qadir clapped at him at the end of the over, took his cap and came out of the ground. Such kind of a knock was unheard of in those days. These were glimpses that showed you this guy was different.”

Doubts after failure

Tendulkar has often said that after making 15 on his Test debut, he had doubts if he’d play another Test. But Razdan says that the feeling one got in the team was that Tendulkar would play all the four Tests.

“The best thing about Sachin was right from the first day he knew he would be in the playing XI. That gives you a lot of confidence, regardless of what happens. Right from the word go, the team was formed with Sachin in it. He made 15 in his debut innings and probably as a cricketer, he’d be thinking he’d not play again. But the feeling in the dressing room was that when you take a 16-year-old, there is no point in keeping him out. With all the buzz and the atmosphere, it would be unfair to drop a player after scoring just 15 in the first innings,” remembers Razdan.

Getting better each time

Within a month of returning from Pakistan, Razdan was on the flight to New Zealand with Tendulkar and the rest of the Indian team led by Mohammed Azharuddin.

Tendulkar came close to becoming the youngest to score a Test hundred. At McClean Park, Napier, Tendulkar fell for 88. Razdan remembers how inconsolable Tendulkar was at missing the chance of scoring his maiden Test 100 in only his sixth Test.

“You could see how hurt he was feeling on missing out on the opportunity. Even Kapil paaji tried to console him. After that, however, in his next tour to England, he scored his first 100 at Old Trafford. With each series, he was much tougher and gaining experience,” says Razdan, who played in the tour games in New Zealand.

Razdan, who is seen carrying Tendulkar off the ground during one of the games in New Zealand, says he was heavier than he actually looks.

“In an one-dayer in New Zealand, Sachin had cramps. As I was not playing, I rushed to help him out. We called for a stretcher but it took a long time to come. As Sachin was limping, he said to me ‘why don’t you lift me up’. He was very heavy, bone heavy. When I was taking him halfway down the ground, I saw the stretcher coming and said ‘I’ll put you on the stretcher’. He said, ‘No, no, I am comfortable’. I said, ‘you may be comfortable but I am not, and if I carry you further, I will need the stretcher.’ He put his arm around my neck and was so comfortably sitting in my arms,” says Razdan.

Another memorable incident that Razdan remembers involving Tendulkar is when he bowled captain Azharuddin a bouncer during nets.

“We went for practice one day and the pitch was a little damp. Bedi paaji (cricket manager) said the fast bowlers will have an off day and the part-timers would bowl. Azzubhai went out to bat without a helmet. The new ball was given to Sachin. Off the second ball, he bowled a bouncer and Azzu fell on the wicket. Sachin’s response was, ‘why call me a part-timer’. At that point, the practice was called off with only people knocking against spinners. He patted on his bat and said, ‘I’ve got strength in my shoulders’,” Razdan reminisces.

And it is on these shoulders that Tendulkar carried the hopes of a billion fans for the next two-and-a-half decades. And it all began on this date, 26 years ago.

Wisdom of the Nords

Embracing new cultures while following old customs, loving life and giving public space a new meaning are just a few Swedish things falls in love with



Asterix and the Great Crossing, which I read as kid, introduced me to the Vikings. Intrigued by their culture—particularly the names of characters such as Here end the lessen and Hunting seassen—I looked them up in the World Book Encyclopaedia to discover that they lived in Sweden, Norway and Finland. Now, at 33, on a recent trip to Sweden, I expect to encounter the Viking culture for real, only to learn that Christianity, which came to Sweden in the 10th century, has taken over.

The New

“Christians were smart. They built churches over Viking burial grounds, so the transition of believers of Viking traditions to Christianity was seamless,” explains an educational institute's senior advisor that I meet in Stockholm.

“However, we still observe both traditions,” she adds.

The earliest sign of Christian influence in Scandinavia was seen at the ancient town of Lund in the form of a cathedral. Cobbled streets, providing more space to pedestrians and cyclists than anything I've seen in India, lead to this magnificent structure, now part of Lund University's campus. A tall tower, the cathedral may have once been white, but a tonne of soot has blotted the exterior with patches of black. Inside, as per our guide, Jacques Schultz, one will find a sculpture of a giant hugging a beam. “Legend has it that the giant, agreed to help

St Lawerence build the cathedral quickly, but on one condition: He must guess the giant's name once the structure was built. If St Lawrence failed to do so, the giant would eat him up. On the final day, St Lawrence followed the giant back to his cave and overheard his wife telling the kids, 'Finn will bring Lawrence's head back tomorrow'. Overjoyed, the next day, St Lawrence called the giant by his name, enraging him. Finn rushed to a piller to destroy the cathedral, but was turned into stone,” says Schultz.

I'm perplexed to find the doors shut; a couple of church workers open them at not-so-regular intervals. So I'm guessing that though the Swedes have adopted the religion, they are either not religious or consider it a private affair. In stores you won't find religious memorabilia; the most popular souvenirs are crystals, Absolut Vodka, Swedish flag magnets and stuffed reindeer toys.

The Old

But traces of Viking culture still remain. Stockholm has several Viking museums, one being the Nordic Museum. Unfortunately, I don’t have time to go in. But I manage to admire its tall, tower-like structures with sharp-tipped, cone-shaped roofs, resembling Gothic architecture. However, these buildings are black or dark grey, unlike the brown BMC headquarters or Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus in Mumbai.

While Christmas and Easter are celebrated grandly, Midsummer's Eve (a Viking festival that falls on June 21—the longest day of the year) is just as popular. I'm told, everything closes. "The streets are spookily deserted” and “people sing, dance, eat, and drink a lot of schnapps!”. Other Viking fetes are enjoyed too, such as Walpurgis Eve, when college closes at April's end; students don their characteristic white caps and sing songs to welcome spring, the budding greenery and a brighter future. On All Saints Day and St Lucia's Day, both Christian and Viking festivities prevail.

The Obscure

There's a day for everything! I'm starving and want to try the local food the day I land in Sweden. At the first bakery I enter, the girl behind the counter tells me it's National Cinnamon Bun Day and insists I have a bun. I expect it to be like what you get in Mumbai—traces of cinnamon overpowered by maida. But instead, it's like freshly baked bread, cinnamon gets to be the hero and its custard-like centre melts in my mouth. I haven't tasted anything like this and am pleased to know that it's a staple in Sweden. I've been sent with strict instructions to carry back alcohol available at grocery stores, since its “what locals would drink”, but I discover that hard liquor can only be bought from government-run stores (with a proper permit) that shut by 7 pm. Beer with less than 2 per cent alcohol is the only spirit available in stores.

The Refreshing

One thing I notice across the country—travelling north to Umea and south to Lund—is the sheer number of men pushing prams. A local tells me, “Seeing this, an American journalist went back and wrote, 'Sweden has a number of gay male nannies.'” Hilarious! Sweden is among the few countries that give long paternity leave and its new rule of six-hour weekdays for better productivity, shows that even companies value work-life balance. Even more fascinating is the Right of Public Access that lets you walk, cycle, ride, ski or camp on any land, except private gardens near a dwelling or land under cultivation. So Sweden, as you see, is charming and you're sure to come back changed if you truly explore its culture.

Velbekomme with the Danes

 Velbekomme with the Danes

On a recent trip to Copenhagen, Amy Fernandes discovers a whole different world of smorgasbord and other delightful Danish delicacies

I never knew I had eaten smorgasbord until I visited Copenhagen. It's at every street corner, food court, supermarket, cafe, canteen and even fine-dining restaurant. There are wide window displays of smorgasbord, making you wonder whether you’ve got the meaning of the word wrong. Smorgasbord, the dictionary informs us, is a representation of a buffet meal of hot and cold bites. It also informs us that the Swedish originally meant it to be an open sandwich: a slice of bread on which you could pile on anything your heart desires. So, like everything, as also in food, smorgasbord is an evolutionary thing. I was right about the word and so were the Swedes, who invented it.

What’s different about the Scandinavian smorgasbord as we know it from the rest of the world, is that the toppings here offer you a wide variety of meats in various forms: pork, lamb, quail, smoked, carpaccio, cooked, salami... the list is endless. You can choose to mix meat with cheese, vegetables, herbs or like we tried in one place, even fruit. I tried a boring combination of potato, cheese and herbs at the Copenhagen Street Food (a large warehouse turned into a street-food area) and then topped it with a cod and meat combination. And for the rest of my trip, I remembered to stick to the bounty that the Alantic Ocean throws up.

And what bounty it is. Every restaurant we ate in gave us memorable meals. Kähler inside the Tivoli Gardens produced the most unforgettable fish served on a bed of herbed potatoes and vegetables. Sounds simple, but when was the last time you ate something this simple, that was this good? For a panoramic view of the city and modern Scandinavian menu you have to visit The Tower, which rests on the top of Copenhagen’s Parliament. Do not miss the chocolate desserts there or the bacon chips or everything on the menu. The city boasts one of the highest number of Michelin-starred restaurants and you can see why. Noma (toping the top 50 restaurants of the world) housed in a quiet, almost nondescript warehouse area is located there. Every restaurant you visit has something unique for you to come away with. Take the restaurant 'simpleRaw' for instance. This is a small, only vegan eatery that has simple, raw, 100% plant-based food as promised. Gorge on salads, juices (beetroot and ginger if you dare), and a host of other exotica that’s mind boggling to remember. Another time, we visited Restaurant Sletten, by the harbour in a cosy fisherman village in Humlebaek en route the Kokkedal (Hamlet's) Castle. What a lovely way to have sliced haddock on your plate—as you watch the ocean roar, fishermen bring in boats laden with leaping fish that will soon be a gourmet dish.

In Copenhagen you can’t go wrong with food, whether it’s the humble staple, smorgasbord or the complicated Æbleflæsk (apple pork)

So, Where Are You Headed This Winter Holiday?

2016, features the top ten countries, cities and regions to visit next year.

Interestingly, Mumbai features sixth on the list of top cities for 2016, coming in ahead of Manchester in the UK and Rome in Italy. According to the book, "2016 is set to be the year that this powerhouse of fashion, finance and film [Mumbai] comes of age.” Kotor in Montenegro takes the top spot thanks to offering a “picture-perfect visage from virtually every angle”.

The book includes 17 inspirational travel-themed lists ranging from the best value destinations for 2016, to the best animal adventures for families, best places to seek silence and the best places to elope.

“With Bali as the top destination this festive season, we expect to see an increased interest to other parts of Indonesia especially with the recent free visa facilities for Indian travellers, says Kavitha Gnanamurthy of Skyscanner India, a search engine.

Rajeev Nangia, COO at TRAC Representations, says a European vacation shouldn’t only be synonymous with the Alpine slopes of Switzerland. At a time when both north India and Switzerland will be reeling under the cold, you could enjoy the luxury of a European holiday minus the bonechilling cold in the Mediterranean. “Think Monaco and Cannes in the French Riviera,” suggests Nangia.

According to Ankur Bhatia of Bird Group, many more Indians are looking at travelling to slightly off-beat destinations such as Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Muscat and Krabi in southern Thailand.

There is renewed interest this season for Europe, Dubai, Thailand and HongKong, says Ranjeet Oak of MakeMyTrip. “With the growing popularity of adventure tourism, winter snow sports have become a hot tourist attraction. Gulmarg in Kashmir is considered to be one of the best skiing destinations in the world,” he adds.

Ways to beat the vacation rush this Christmas and New Year

Far From The Madding Crowd



IT’S THAT time of the year when you want to indulge in a well-deserved holiday. It is all very well to plan an excursion on your own or with your loved ones in the last week of December or during the New Year break. But you are not alone. The world and their uncle are also headed for that jam-packed hill station, crowded beach resort or not-so-deserted desert safari, during this vacation season.

Chances are, you’ll run into vacationers jostling to get ahead of you at the adventure park or elbowing you out of the drinks queue at the bar. Plus, finding secluded and good accommodation in peak season may cost the earth. Therefore, it might be a good idea to get tips from travel professionals on beating the vacation rush.

Half the battle is won, says Ranjeet Oak, chief business officer-holidays, MakeMyTrip, if you choose the timing of your holiday well. “Europe is cheaper in the winter and one can also get better rates during early spring and late fall. It is most expensive during the summer. This applies to hotel rooms as well as air fares,” explains Oak. “Theme parks are busy over Christmas and New Year’s and again in February, but business is slower in January. So, if you can postpone your holiday by a few days in order to save a bundle of money, where is the harm?” he asks.

Apart from getting the timing of your holiday right, one good way to beat the vacation rush, says Abraham Alapatt, chief innovation officer and head – marketing and service quality, Thomas Cook India, is to take the road less travelled. “Consider flexible and economical accommodation such as village/ local stays, bed and breakfast places, youth hostels and self-drive vacations that give one time to discover the locales at a leisurely pace. It makes for better value for money, too.”

HOW EARLY BIRDS GAIN

Because of heightened demand, December is also the most expensive period to travel compared to other periods throughout the year, warns Kavitha Gnanamurthy, the Singapore-based India head of market development operations with Skyscanner, a search engine that helps people compare flights, hotels and car hiring options.

After analysing data over the last three years, Gnanamurthy says travellers should consider booking on average 18 weeks in advance, to get the lowest price on a flight from India. “Search parameters this year compared to 2014 showed that some destinations see a surge in searches by Indian travellers in December. These included Bangkok (50 per cent year-on-year increase), Dubai (47 per cent) and Singapore (46 per cent),” she says.

While planning multi-city itineraries, try booking ‘Open-Jaw’ tickets, recommends Ranjeet Oak of MakeMyTrip. “This kind of ticket, where the traveller doesn’t fly back from the same city where he first landed, is a better idea I think than a round ticket. Say, on a multi-city trip to Italy, if you buy a Delhi-Rome and Milan-Delhi ticket instead of a round ticket like Delhi-Rome-Delhi, it will turn out to be cheaper,” says Oak.

EXPLORE NEW TERRAIN

Thanks to Yash Chopra films, most Indian travellers to Europe end up boarding flights to Switzerland en masse come December. Sesh Seshadri, director, Lonely Planet India, says a good way to zero in on a not-so-obvious destination is to identify a cultural event, activity or experience that a city or country has to offer in a particular year. That is how Seshadri and his team arrived at the recommendations for the Best in Travel 2016 books. “For instance, on top of our best places to visit next year is Botswana that will celebrate its 50th independence year in 2016. Apart from its national parks and natural beauty (a combination of desert and delta), Botswana’s wilderness promises unique experiences such as being helmed in a boat by an African gondolier and cruising past sunbathing hippos.”

To avoid being swamped by vacationers, Nikhil Ganju, India country manager of TripAdvisor, the world’s largest travel portal, checks in into properties outside city limits. Even as he loves to spend New Year’s Eve in Goa, which is abuzz with revellers, Ganju avoids the congested Calangute and Baga beaches to stay further north near the beach. “It gives me a more authentic flavour of the way Goans live. Similarly, when I head to the hills, I skip high-end properties such as Wildflower Hall and prefer private villas in Mashobra, near Shimla that offer more personalised service and hospitality.”

RELY ON TECH

It may be a nice idea to use technology in your quest for better deals during peak season. “Apart from travel agencies, one can depend on destination management companies, or popular e-commerce travel portals,” says travel writer and photographer Amit Sengupta, founder-editor of Travelflat.in. “Most winter package deals begin appearing October onwards,” says  Sengupta.

Ankur Bhatia, executive director of Bird Group, advises looking up hotel consolidators to get the best deals on rooms. “The best time to book is either much in advance or at the last minute.”

You could even sign up for a price-alert service to receive notifications in your inbox as soon as prices drop for a destination. “This can help travellers find the best time to get the optimum price,” suggests Gnanamurthy of Skyscanner. “One can find a good deal in the unlikeliest of places. For a vacation to Bali for instance, after looking at budget airlines, I discovered that KLM had a flight to Bali from Singapore priced at just 200 Singapore dollars,” she adds.

Now you can indulge your wanderlust and be rupee-wise at the same time!

A Nation In Search Of The Next Destination

Flying for pleasure, road-tripping for thrills or cruising for kicks. Indian travel has been a long journey from the days of modest trips to hill stations

CRUISING ON ships has caught on with Indian travellers with disposable income. Trips to Dubai and Singapore are now passé and you can do Europe and America only so many times. Getting on board luxury ships that more or less go nowhere for seven or ten days at sea is the latest craze. Zoya Akhtar’s film, Dil Dhadakne Do, has a lot to answer for. Cruising was catching on, but seeing Anil Kapoor, Priyanka Chopra and Anushka Sharma having a ball in the waters of the Mediterranean, in insanely expensive designer outfits, has sent many Indians scurrying to the nearest travel agent.

You will also find an Indian who will turn up his nose at such comfort travel. His idea of a vacation is a trek in Ladakh or Nepal. There are Indians who consider it beneath them to carry their own suitcases. This guy will carry a pack on his back loaded with essentials, he will sleep in unheated tents and dig a hole for a makeshift latrine. It doesn’t bother him that he hasn’t had a wash for a week, or had a drink for that matter. This is eco-travel. I am told it builds character. The man, not always young, will dine out on his stories for months to come. It’s catching on with women too. Sometimes there are more women than men on these arduous treks.

Instead of lying on a beach in Goa or Kerala, the young executive in Gurgaon now prefers to go white-water rafting in inflatable boats down the rapids of upper Ganges or the mighty Brahmaputra from the point it leaves China and enters India after discreetly changing its name. Those with money to burn and the nature-minded take time off to go to the Galapagos in the Pacific Ocean, the world’s foremost destination for wildlife viewing.

Since this is a travel piece, let me get back to the Indians’ reluctance to carry their own suitcases. Once, when I was on the plane, I saw a senior Indian bureaucrat get on board with a peon in tow carrying his briefcase. It was an Air India plane. The bureaucrat took his seat and the peon placed the briefcase in the bin above him and got off the aircraft. At another time I saw the British Foreign Secretary get out of a car outside the Oberoi in Delhi, pick up his bag from the boot and walk to the reception to check in. No one from the British High Commission accompanied him. Indians like to think they are different from other people. True, but not always in a nice way.

We have come a long way. Traditionally we are not vacation-taking people. When we travelled, it was for a purpose, to attend a wedding, a funeral or on business. The Indian was content to stay put at home. I can't remember my parents ever taking a vacation. A little later, the affluent started heading for the hills in summer with their families; Simla, Mussoorie, Nainital or, in the south, Ooty or Kodaikanal. Goa did not catch on as a holiday destination until several years after the Portuguese were sent packing.

Those with modest budgets took trains to visit relatives in the provincial towns or villages during the school holidays. There, the children would be pampered by relatives, play gilli danda, climb up trees and get into all kinds of mischief. All in all, they probably had more fun than their well-off friends in hill stations.

For a long time after Independence, travelling abroad was cumbersome and prohibitively expensive for most people. There was the hassle of getting an income-tax clearance before you were allowed to go abroad. The amount of foreign exchange you were entitled to take with you was laughable; it would barely cover the costs of two or three nights in a decent hotel in the West. Citizens, otherwise law abiding, bought their dollars illegally from touts hanging around Connaught Place in Delhi and Flora Fountain in Bombay. Others depended on the kindness and hospitality of friends and relatives living abroad.

The only people who travelled frequently were airline employees and their spouses. Free tickets were doled out to them annually as a perk. Today you may find this difficult to believe, but there was a time when working for Air India was considered glamorous. The staff went to exotic destinations that the rest of us could only dream of. These tickets were subject to availability of seats but no one lost sleep on that account. Flights were rarely full in those days. As for accommodation, Air India staff would stay with their colleagues posted abroad. Often this was an imposition.

Until 50 years ago, before the jet age, travel to England and continental Europe by ship was the preferred mode of travel. It was leisurely, but no one was in any particular hurry. The maharajas would sail out of the Ballard Estate docks in Bombay on P&O ships with names like Strathnaver, wherever that is, and Mooltan. They would be heading for their villas on the French Riviera in first-class cabins, confident that they would not have to rub shoulders with students going to Oxford and Cambridge at the back of the ship in cattle class. (By the way, do you know where the word ‘posh’ comes from? It is from the initials of port out, starboard home. These were preferred berths for Brits between England and India. This way, they avoided the heat of the sun before air-conditioning was invented.)
THE WAY IT IS Indians soon got tired of visiting Marks & Spencer on Oxford Street and Madame Tussauds on Baker Street. The arrival of cable television transported them to exotic places they had not heard of before

I took one such ship, travelling alone, still a teenager, in 1956. I was coming from Fiji to study in Delhi's Shri Ram College of Commerce. I am a bania from a shopkeeping family. I boarded Stratheden in Sydney and it took me three weeks to reach Bombay. All meals were included and yet it was far cheaper than if I had flown on a propeller-driven plane, hopping from city to city for fuelling or change of aircraft.

On the Stratheden I found myself seated at the dining table with three white guys digging into their steaks. At that time, I was still a pukka vegetarian and had not yet quite mastered the art of manipulating a fork and a knife. I was served boiled potatoes and string beans. In Bombay I was put on board the Frontier Mail. When I reached Delhi I had not the foggiest idea where Shri Ram College of Commerce was located. How I got there is a story for another time.

The Arab-Israeli war in 1967 closed the Suez Canal and put an end to travel by ship between the East and Europe. Passenger ships stopped docking in Bombay. By the time the canal was open again more than eight years later, a new era had begun. With the introduction of jet planes, air travel became more affordable. Planes could carry more than a hundred passengers. And the government became a little more generous with foreign exchange.

Indians soon got tired of visiting Marks & Spencer on Oxford Street and Madame Tussauds on Baker Street. The arrival of cable television transported them to exotic places they had not heard of before. We became more adventurous and started flying as far as Vancouver to see the whales and explore the coast of Alaska on ships.

As for the aam admi, people who once rarely stepped out of the comfort of their towns, the diamond merchant in Surat for instance, they now go on group tours to see the lions and ostriches in South Africa. They take along with them a Jain cook who prepares three meals a day, including aloo puri for breakfast. The guy takes over a section of the hotel’s kitchen, as pre-arranged, and the local staff is instructed by the management to leave him alone. I am not sure about this, but I am told that the groups sometimes take handis with them, uncontaminated by meat, and everyone eats out of paper plates.

Vegetarians on “if it is Tuesday, this must be Belgium” bus tours of Europe do more or less the same thing. There is a herd mentality, always groups. Why not? But can you blame the Swiss when they complain that tourists from India, in search of Dilwale Dulhania locations, spend very little money when they come to their country?

The more savvy – the been there done that crowd – now go to Istanbul to visit the souks and spice markets, see the Blue Mosque, the Byzantine Sophia Church and the Topkapi Palace. The Turks are friendlier towards Indians than the Europeans. They will ask you on the street if you know Amitabh Bachchan. Cities of Eastern Europe, dull and drab during the Soviet days, are also enticing the new Indian tourist. Prague has a vibrant nightlife and the best beer in the world. Budapest has the Danube river flowing through it, not blue but still beautiful. There are medicinal thermal baths that look like palaces.

It is impossible to go on a cruise in any part of the world without being in the company of other Indians. That is not necessarily a good thing but I will not get into that here. You will find them boarding ships in Argentina heading towards Antarctica to see the penguins and drink cocktails from glasses holding ice cut from glaciers hundreds of years old.

In the days when we took ships to go from one place to another, the largest ship in the world was Cunard’s Queen Mary that weighed 81,237 tonnes. Now they build ships meant for cruising that are twice that size. These are floating cities. The one I boarded two years ago in Venice had 15 floors and 3,000 passengers. There were 13 restaurants and an equal number of bars. The theatre for nightly entertainment had over a thousand seats and could match anything on Broadway in grandeur if not the quality of the productions.

All the meals were included in my fare and it was fine dining all the way with full table service. For those who preferred to eat more casually, there was a round-theclock buffet on the top deck. Lunch was international and included chicken curry, dal and naan and the menu varied daily. On board were visiting fathers and mothers of NRIs who could speak nothing but Gujarati or Punjabi. I spent the evenings in the casino – all cruises have casinos – trying to beat the dealer at the blackjack table. Did I succeed? I won’t tell you.

Cruises are good value for money. You pay about $1,000 per person for seven days for very comfortable cabins, double occupancy. Everything on board is free except for the booze and no, you can’t bring your own bottle. All cruise ships make stops. A seven-day cruise will take in four ports. But sightseeing is an option, not a requirement. You'll find passengers who don’t get off the ship till it is time to leave. It is a bargain considering what you would otherwise pay on land for seven nights’ hotel rooms and food.

Let’s get back to the guy who went trekking in hills, I mentioned earlier. Cruises are of no interest to him. Right now he is scuba-diving in the Andamans, once the dreaded Kala Pani for incarceration of hardened convicts. His girlfriend from office is with him, geared up for the dive.

Lucky man!

TRAVEL BACK IN TIME 1. Indian tourists taking pictures at the Colosseum in 1948 2. Mussoorie, 1977 3. Grazia magazine editors talking to the hostess of an Air India flight to Bangkok in 1965